PROJECT rusty 71 ct70

cbrianroll

cbrianroll

Member
Since my carb tuning thread has grown I thought why not start a build thread to contain all my questions and your guys great answers. Here it is just out of the truck. The chrome and aluminum is terrible, the fork is spun wrong, seat is tore up, no spark, brakes don't work.....in other words..perfect.
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6

69ST

Well-Known Member
For reasons unknown, I can only see one pic...the LH side view. Looks like a pretty decent base machine to restore. As far as I can tell, it's straight, as in never been crashed. The frameset tins look better than most. The seat cover is toast, probably the foam too...typical, garden-variety issues with a K1. Only potential surprise is the AWOL tail light. The BMF K1 unit is one-year-only and kinda pricey.

This one looks good enough for a purist-correct restoration, if that's what you're after, without having to invest stupid money.

You're not talking about having the frameset tins powdercoated, are you?
 
cbrianroll

cbrianroll

Member
Weird...i can see them all. I'm still ignorant of the terminology on these ct's....what are the "tins"? I've only coated the fenders and engine protector so far....they are the worst....really, really deep pitting. The photos definitely look better than in person...alot of rust under the paint. Not going for restoration, just clean, kill the rust and make safe. The kids are gonna live on it lol, I will to...its a blast...we have a fun backyard. Are their some parts I should consider selling since I'm not restoring it to it's former glory?
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
I can see them all, too...now. Yes, that's a rough fender. PC-ing narfed-out, rust-pitted, fenders makes sense. OTOH, the frameset tins (frame, HL shell, HL ears, lower fork covers, chainguard, swingarm, shock covers) Heeeeeuuuuge mistake. With those, you're better off using rattlean paint, which can be removed without destroying the frame. PC is one and done!
 
cbrianroll

cbrianroll

Member
Ahh....got it now guys. Plan was pc the gnarly chrome, truck liner to blend the pitting, paint. Was going to just shoot the frame, forks, etc. Need to man up and get/make a soda blaster for the aluminum.
 
cbrianroll

cbrianroll

Member
I'm missing the chaingaurd....bummer. Also I do have the brake light and mount, it's somewhere in the garage lol. (My son's helping) actually the seat foam is good too...gotta order some vinyl, although I was thinking of getting some foam and try a different shape, custom touch lol. The other bummer is the Speedo cable was shot,don't really think it's only got 1200 miles on it.
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
Speedo cables are available new (reproduction) from NEVC, dratv, et al. If you're going to do a custom re-foam & cover on the seat, intact K1 foam is rare. Either retain it for "someday" or offer it up for sale and recoup a few piasters. New chainguards are also available and Candy Ruby red is the most common color. It won't match your frame but, it should look decent...way better than a black, or silver, one.

No idea what you're referring to about soda blasting "the aluminum". The folding handlebar clamp and brake plates can be polished back to stunningly good effect, if you know what you're doing...or willing to put in the extra elbow grease. If these are the parts to which you alluded, don't use blast media harder than walnut shells, or you'll just profile the surfaces. Seriously, a couple of afternoons spent wetsanding with 400-1500 grit paper (in progressive stages) will leave the surfaces smooth enough to hand-polish using Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish. A wheel is a lot faster, if you have one and the bar compounds needed.
 
cbrianroll

cbrianroll

Member
Soda bicarbonate....softer than walnut, more polishing so I read. Supposed to work good on aluminium. Thanks for all the info! Is mine a k1? That's embarrassing,...i was thinking it was a k0.
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
Yes, yours is a K1...mo`better for you. The K1 was the first model to have hydraulic fork legs, a.k.a. real front suspension. Only disadvantage of a K1 is the added cost of cosmetic items...more chrome (and those diecast fork rings are stupid-expensive to re-chrome) and the now pricey muffler.

At this late date, I still don't see any real reason to use soda blasting on a CT70. I am familiar with the process. The steel parts (frameset & wheels) are better off glass bead blasted...no alkaline residue. The aluminum should be sanded, not media blasted. Chemical stripping will remove the factory clearcoat from the brake plates & shock lowers. From there, they should be sanded & polished, along with the handlebar clamp...imho.

If I were looking to refinish rust-pitted fenders, on the cheap, I'd blast, & paint them. Rustoleum textured outdoor paint should work quite well; the stuff has held up on my firewood rack & mailbox post for the past 5 years, now,

Ever consider "PC chrome", for the fenders?
 
cbrianroll

cbrianroll

Member
As man...i didn't hit send last time. Here it is now....thanks for the info. I'll look into glass beads. Is that a wet or dry blasting? I haven't really looked into pc colors much, I got a cheap gun to test the waters and a whole lotta black, normally just pc things that are hidden or don't need nice paint colors. Chrome would be awesome.....is it actually like chrome or just silvery? Although silver would look good too. Lots of fun living in the Pacific Northwest, even our stainless rusts lol
 
cbrianroll

cbrianroll

Member
Not alot of progress....had to get a new washing machine and lots of side jobs slowing me down. Got a little powder coating done today...
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6

69ST

Well-Known Member
PC "chrome" resembles soft-polished aluminum. Not a bad look, imho, if that is what you're after.

Glass bead blasting is a dry method. When done wet it's referred to as "vapor blasting".
 
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