Question for someone with more expirence

Discussion in 'Projects/Builds' started by Chrisj796, Oct 11, 2018.

  1. Chrisj796

    Chrisj796 New Member

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    I have a k1 I rebuilt a few months back, I tore bike down an rebuilt or replaced a majority of the bike, EXEPT due to the fact the bike only has 700 something miles I did not touch the clutch. Bike runs great, idles great, starts first kick an so on. On the other hand it has no power from the get go and gears stick quite often. I have bought new friction plates but would like some options before tearing it apart.
     

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  3. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    This sounds like two separate issues. The only reason a clutch would need to be rebuilt, on a healthy engine with 700 miles on the clock, is because it slips. That would be most noticeable on cold-start. A lot of owners make the mistake of running automotive oil in these engines. 40 years ago, that would have been fine, as long as the correct viscosity was used. In 2018, that's asking for trouble...in the form of burnt shift forks and contaminated friction discs that slip. If your clutch doesn't slip, no need to rebuild it. However, at 700 miles, it is time to remove the throwout bearing flange, to clean the oil spinner (a.k.a. centrifugal oil filter), that is important for engine life.

    Best blind guess is that you need to check the clutch preload adjustment and learn proper shifting technique. To be sure, it's not rocket science...but...it is a little different than you probably realize, at this time. With a little bit of instruction it's easy enough to learn. With practice...over time...it's not too bad to master, either. The one thing it isn't, for most, is natural.

    FYI, this is a semi-automatic clutch. Once engagement rpm is reached, it's a fully manual clutch. What you don't realize is that the shifter also controls clutch engagement. Holding the shifter, in either direction, after a gear change is the same as holding the hand lever with a typical manual clutch. Correctly modulating the throttle, engine rpm, and shifter release is necessary to achieve smooth shifts...same as with any other bike. Not having a hand lever to control the clutch is a bit weird...at first.

    As for your "no power from the get go"...more detail is needed before anyone can even make a wild guess as to what may, or may not, be going on.
     

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