Reclaimed S90

Discussion in 'The Gastank' started by red69, May 27, 2016.

  1. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    If anyone has previously read Post #104, you would have seen the method I used for labeling white shrink tubing to reproduce the Sumitomo labels on the S90 main electrical harness. Not one to leave things alone, I found a better method to do this. It entails using polyester sheet label material to direct print the labels with a laser printer. I used full sheet labels from here:

    https://www.onlinelabels.com/Products/OL9805LP.htm?search=OL9805LP&st=s

    I printed about twelve labels on a sheet and cut them out individually. I tested one by running it under water to see if the print would stay intact and it did. The only thing that happened was the adhesive came off with constant rubbing under water. This is not a concern because the label is woven into the harness with tape. Then I tried twisting it back and forth to cause it to rip and it did not. Tough stuff. One thing I did notice was that some of the toner broke loose, so I sprayed it with some matte clear and tried it again with everything staying in place. This method allows for a one step process, the clarity exceeds the first method I used and the label thickness more closely resembles the original.
     

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  2. allenp42

    allenp42 Well-Known Member

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    That is really nice work! Which label did you use?
     

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  3. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    Which label? I don't follow.
     
  4. allenp42

    allenp42 Well-Known Member

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    I see 3 different waterproof labels. Waterproof Polyester for LaserJet, Waterproof Matte for Inkjet, Waterproof Gloss for LaserJet.
     
  5. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    Allen, I used the weatherproof polyester for a laserjet.
     
  6. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    I recently bought a small slip roll for the purpose of reproducing a carb cover on the S90. The original piece is no longer available and used parts are hard to come by for a reasonable price. The slip roll is used for fabbing the cylinder portion and I made a foam male mold for reproducing the cap. Here are some pictures of what I've done. The last picture (white one) is of an original part.

    Bob
     

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  7. scooter

    scooter Well-Known Member

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    That is some nice work
     
  8. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, Jeff. I enjoyed doing it.
     
  9. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    I've been neglecting this build for too long. I finally found a local (35 mi. away) that does vapor honing. I gave him the S90 jug, head and a couple of cover plates and he did them while I waited. Cost $60.

    Before

    20190212_170349.jpg
    20190212_172319.jpg



    After

    20200618_163618.jpg
     
    allenp42 and airblazer like this.
  10. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    His shop had a plethora of two stroke bikes and one fully restored CT70H. Sorry, I didn't take a picture of the Trail 70, but I did get pics of two 2-stroke 125cc Hondas. One was water cooled and the other was air cooled. He stated that the water cooled bike (N1) was the rarer of the two.

    Link to the Mugen 125:
    http://www.mxworksbike.com/index.php/1980-mugen-me125-w1
     

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  11. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    Looking good.

    If the goal is a purist restoration, then the head casting is the one item where wet blasting may be the best option when the staining or/and oxidation won't respond to chemical cleaning or soft media. The rough cast surface comes out shinier than as-cast but the result is a lot closer to original than dry blasting. With a painted cylinder jug, it's doesn't really make much difference one way or the other.
     
  12. allenp42

    allenp42 Well-Known Member

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    The results are amazing! How did the combustion chamber and valve seats come out?
     
  13. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    I did not have him do the combustion chamber because I have this feeling that the slurry wouldn't play nice with the valve guides. I may be wrong, but that's just my opinion. The seats need to be cut due to a barely visible seating band on one and non-existent band on the other. I cleaned the combustion chamber by hand.
     
  14. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    By the way, the alloy cylinder does not get paint, only the cast iron version is painted. I happen to have the earlier alloy one.
     
  15. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    I came across this odd looking cam chain tensioner rod on the S90 that I'm splitting the gases on. It doesn't look like the parts I received in an order and I cannot get the tensioner out of its position in the case. It looks like I will have to cut it in half to remove it. Notice the area at the top of the tensioner rod that seems to have been brazed at some point. Even the base of the rubber is square. Anyone ever sen anything like this?



    20200624_212239_resized.jpg
     

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