Rediscovered 1971 CT70H

Gary

Well-Known Member
Kirb don't think there is an adjustment at the lever- that adjustment is taken care of adjuster you mentioned in the middle of the cable. There is another adjustment under the right side cover under that cover with the 2 screws though.

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John_J_T

New Member
Progress!

I had twins a month ago so I get about 20 min a night to mess around with the bike. But slowly I'm getting things together.

So far I've replaced both handle bars, hi/low switch, horn and button, clutch cable, front break cable, front break pads, speedo cable, air filter, battery, throttle assembly and all light bulbs. Things are running great for the most part. Head light works, speedo works, hi/low indicator and speedo illumination lights both work.

Tail light/break light doesn't work however I am getting around 6.3 volts off the red cable and 6.3 volts off the green cable when pressing the breaks so I know the harness is good. I connected a 6 volt battery directly to the tail light and get nothing so I'm sure the assembly is bad. Ordered a new one tonight.

The only other thing I can't get working is the darn horn. I know the harness is good because I'm getting 6.3 volts off the red harness cable in the head light bucket. I know the horn works as well because I hooked up red to positive on the battery and green to negative and wow is it a loud horn. Made my ears ring. But when hooked up to the bike pressing the button does nothing. Could have I gotten a bad button? Is there a way to test the horn with it plugged into the harness and bypassing the button? I tried grounding the green cable to the frame but still got nothing. But I know there's power to the horn because I do see 6.3 volts off the harness connection.

This weekend's project is replacing the muffler, it's cracked right where it comes off the engine so it smokes me out riding it and is loud.

I also ordered a new rectifier. However I don't really know what is does. Should I replace the original one?

It is interesting that some of the reproduction parts don't quite fit together right. Had to drill out part of the handle bar to get the clutch cable to fit and I had to file down a piece of the throttle assembly to get the stopper to fit.

One last question. How the hell do I get the handle bar grips on? They are ridiculously tight and I can only get them on about 1/4 of the way. Then it's almost impossible to get them off after I give up trying to put them on. I read somewhere about hair spray but that seems a bit odd.
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
Check the rectifier with an ohm meter. It should only let current through one way. It transforms AC to DC to charge the battery. For the grips, I use rubbing alcohol, just keep your hands dry so they dont slip. Check your horn button with a meter. It just simply grounds the power to the bar.
 

John_J_T

New Member
Figured out the horn issue is the button. If I take the button apart and short the ring inside to the handle bar the horn goes off. So it's just not making the right connection inside the button. I've ordered another. Right now I'm working on the front wheel. Got new tires and tubes. It took me almost an hour to pry the rims away from the tires. The rubber had damn near fused to the rims because of the rust. I'm polishing them up and will repaint. I will probably replace them at a later date, but they are cleaning up nicely so I'll just roll with them for now.

Any advice on remove the speedo from the head light bucket? The original bucket is in rough shape so I got a new one. I can get a flat head screw driver under the bottom tab and lift it up but the top tab is too tight to press down and there isn't enough room to pull it out. I tried angling it out from the bottom but there just isn't enough room around it. It looks like it has to be pull out straight but I sure don't see how that's possible. And I don't want to completely break the original bucket to get it out.
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Gary

Well-Known Member
Try pushing down on the face of the speedo with your palm to help compress the gasket between speedo and the housing then as you do that push in on that clip
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Compressing one of the two spring clips will usually allow the speedo to rock slightly inside the shell. Then the second clip becomes easier to compress. These things can put up a valiant fight, so be patient. Placing a thin strip of sheetmetal between one clip & the bucket can also help.
 

John_J_T

New Member
I want to get the title and license plates for the bike. I can check everything off on the State of MT checklist for street legal bikes except the rear view mirror. Everything I've found online so far screws into the handle bars but mine doesn't have screw holes. Any advice on where I might find a rear view mirror that I could clamp on to the left handle bar?
 

John_J_T

New Member
Well it's been a fun few years riding this thing around the neighborhood. It had been running great for a neglected bike that has been sitting in a barn for 20 years. However now I have run into a problem. Late last summer I was driving it around and all of a sudden I get what seems to be "false neutral" shifting from 2nd to 3rd. If I try to shift again it will hit 3rd gear. Then in 4th gear I get lurching like it's slightly slipping out of gear then back in. I got sad and put it away for the winter but busted it out again today now that the weather is getting better. I took the clutch plate off and adjusted the little nut/screw and the clutch cable hoping I would luck out but the problem persists. I'm sure I've got some worn out stuff in the transmission. I'm thinking about taking the whole side off to check things out however I have on idea what I'd be looking for or just how far I'd have to take this thing apart. Is this a DIY job for a complete newbie or should I try to find someone in my area that works on small bikes like this?
 

John_J_T

New Member
Thanks Luke. I decided to just dive in and see what happens. This is were I'm at. Any advice on how I get this thing off?
 

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lukelaw1

Active Member
yes a spanner socket is the correct tool for the job and definitely needed for proper retorquing. once your clutch is removed, that big gear to the right in you photo is the primary gear, that easily slides off the shaft once the circlip is removed, then you should be able to see the shift star and drum stopper.
 

John_J_T

New Member
I'm waiting for that socket to be delivered, but I think we are on to something. This screw is VERY loose. when I push the shift peddle the gear moves but the screw does as well. I'm hoping that when I get that big gear off and tighten that screw all will be good again.
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kirrbby

Well-Known Member
I'm waiting for that socket to be delivered, but I think we are on to something. This screw is VERY loose. when I push the shift peddle the gear moves but the screw does as well. I'm hoping that when I get that big gear off and tighten that screw all will be good again.
View attachment 78139

Be sure the shift star is indexed properly...then add a little blue loctite to the screw (if you have it) before you tighten it down.

Also...definitely clean the crud out of your oil spinner before you reinstall the clutch...it's about full up :)
 
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