Shifting clutch problems

D

dagear

New Member
Long time viewer, first time poster but I’m stumped.

K0 1970 working on for friend

Background when I received it, it ran but very poorly and did not have a lot of power so I replaced the jug piston rings and had the head rebuilt by JE Vintage minis. Once back together, and I noticed the clutch is slipping so I installed new friction plates. Reassembled started and purred. When I put it in gear a grinding noise sounded.

I disassembled and saw the clutch actuator was bent, and that I had installed the sleeve and spring on the clutch cam in reverse (Doh!) I straightened the actuator and reassembled. I thought for sure, this was the issue for the grinding. Started annd again same issue, this time the actuator just overrotated and out of cam.

Today I plan to disassemble the clutch again after reading some post last night. I don’t see how I could’ve messed this up because I didn’t take it all the way down. I just took it up part enough to replace the friction plates but as luck would have it I’m putting a cover over the oil filter section. I pulled the threads, so I need to install a heli coil on the clutch outer case.

Now for my questions.

1. how much play should there be in the shifter spindle shaft, could this be the source of issues?
2.How precise does the shifter linkage have to be formed, after straightening mine looks good but going to replace.
3. If the oil filter cover plate was leaking oil would this cause issues with shifting?
4. How does the sifter engage the clutch?

Any thoughts on what could be going on with the cam and shift linkage I plan to order replacements from CHP Motorsports.

Comments much appreciated.
 
#1 The shift shaft will have play until the clutch cover is on, taking up all that play. #2 You have to make sure all the gears under the clutch are properly seated and get the new actuator pointing EXACTLY in the middle when installing it. #3 No, the clutch face gasket or lack of a new one, leaking would not make it grind. That ''might'' lower the oil flow to the head a little. Improper installation of the clutch in general will make it grind, because it's not disengaging, I reckon. Never did that myself, I can only speculate. #4 When you hold the shifter all the way up or down is when the clutch face has pressure on it allowing the engine to disengage the clutch. Same as the 4 speed clutch lever action result. Hope this helps.
 
Is this a ct70 auto clutch you’re working on? I would suggest you post some pics. if it was just slipping before it’s got to be be something you installed wrong.
 
I took the clutch out today and it was locked up. It would not spin so I disassembled it and reassembled it and now it spins freely One Direction and locks up the other. I’m gonna soak the friction discs until the new clutch lever arrives. What are the original thickness of plates, A and B plates I can’t find that in the manual.

When you say the clutch lever should point towards the center, I assume you mean the center of the clutch shaft

Saeed, what angles for the Kickstarter be at a straight up and down is 12 o’clock should I be positioned close to 10 o’clock?

I will get some pictures tomorrow
 
I'm talking about 22811-046-020 needs to be exactly in the center of the bearing on the clutch face. Kick start angles are preference. 12 o clock is my go to.
 
Last edited:
OLD CT said:
I'm talking about 22811-046-020 needs to be exactly in the center of the bearing on the clutch face. Kick start angles are preference. 12 o clock is my go to.
Click to expand...
Old CT, Time finding the part number you referenced, can u call out its name? When I get all the parts I will lay them out in assembly order and post some pictures
 
All the parts last week I mistakenly double ordered the clutch springs from another site. Both sites said they were for a K0 but only one was the correct length. I had a heckuva time getting the clutch put back together so that it would spin clockwise, but not counterclockwise. It could’ve been that my outer snap ring that holds all the clutch plates in place was in reverse. Anyway, I now have it installed, but I have a few questions.

In the first picture, is this the correct assembly of the clutch ball retainer? The cam side faces the piston.

in the second picture I believe this is correct. The new clutch lever is pointing directly to the center.
 

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Looks good, the little oil through spring is inside the oil through sleeve in the center there, correct? It's similar to the 4 little visible springs that are a pain to get in.
 
Looks good to me too. Be sure the shift pedal isn't being pushed out of position if you have the bike leaning over against something. That will mess you up when you point the small arm toward the clutch center.
 
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