Silver Tag Z50

Discussion in 'Honda CT70/Z50 Registry' started by Texan, Oct 1, 2018.

  1. Tripod

    Tripod Active Member

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    Looks like your making great progress. What method works for removing those handlebar dents on the front of the tank?
     
  2. Gary

    Gary Well-Known Member

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    Looking good,cabinet looks good too. I ended up getting plastic media for mine,my guess is that it works much like the walnut shell but might not disintegrate in use. Curious about your new gas tank is it from that guy in Tampa? Been thinking of getting one to paint up for an extra. How did it fit,the front mounts look to be at too vertical compared to the original.
     
  3. Tripod

    Tripod Active Member

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    I have a tank from the guy in Tampa. Bought the unpainted ones. They come with alot of early stages of rust. Whatever coating it has on it doesnt do a good job of rust prevention. The bottom seam of the tank is very wavy and rough. The tank needs alot of work and filler to make it smooth.
     
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  4. Gary

    Gary Well-Known Member

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  5. Texan

    Texan Active Member

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    It wasnt from the familiar ebay seller in Tampa, but it was from Tampa. It was under a different ebay seller and got thru an auction instead of a BIN. I suspect and am pretty sure it is the same guy, as he listed multiple and they were sold with a little rust inside in the description.

    The rust really wasn't too bad. I'll post some pics of it soon.
     
  6. Gary

    Gary Well-Known Member

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    Great thanks
     
  7. Texan

    Texan Active Member

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    Here is some pics of the tank, I don't remember having any trouble with it going onto the rubber mounts, but they do look longer than my stock tank. The rubber strap Pin is butted up to the tank, which has a bigger flange than the original. I never fully mounted it, so I see didn't how the rubber strap fit. As Tripod said, it is a bit wavy at the bottom.
    20190623_164127.jpg 20190623_164149.jpg 20190623_164233.jpg 20190623_164346.jpg 20190623_164452.jpg 20190623_164359.jpg
     
  8. Gary

    Gary Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. That 3rd picture shows the angle of the mounts I was talking about,the oem tank the mounts are not as great an angle. All these things ie the pin and those mounts could be easily changed before any finishing work done. Better than an old beat up one for sure.
     
  9. Texan

    Texan Active Member

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    Thanks RacerX, the missing Stud threads are still good. Should I attempt to remove the Stud still there, or is best to leave it be and just replace the missing one? I'd hate for the Stud still there to break while attempting to remove it.

    Also I'm gonna eventually gonna send out the Head to get the valves re-cut. I know I need new Valves, but what else is usually replaced/reused during a Head rebuild?
     
  10. Texan

    Texan Active Member

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    Almost a year later, but this little thing is now whole and a runner! Not restored, just repaired. Took the head to a shop earlier this year and was turned down :cautious:. It was right when the Covid thing was just starting to kick off, so I think they just didn't want to mess with small jobs or something.

    The guy looked at it and said, he hadn't cut valves on something so small and the more experienced guy there had taken a leave of absence due to him being in the high risk category. Oh well, I may try sending it out in the future.

    So instead, I used a Head & Cylinder from a Z50K3 Engine that had a broken Crank :eek:. Head was taken apart and cleaned up, leak test came out good, new piston & rings installed. Original lower end was rebuilt (my first rebuild btw :))

    It still needs further shining up, but its mechanically sound. The tank is beat, but its original and matches the beater theme of the bike (I still have the repop tank, may put it on). These are some pics from a couple of weeks ago when I finished. I have already done further cosmetic things to it since. Next will be the Bars, they are a little tweaked to the left. Need to make a straightening jig, or may buy CHP bars, but for now they are functional.

    20200525_170737.jpg 20200525_160128.jpg 20200525_160359.jpg 20200525_163934-1[1].jpg
     
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  11. airblazer

    airblazer Active Member

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    Nice work! I am currently working to imitate what you’ve done on my Z50 to get it up and running as well.
    :red70:
     
    #51 airblazer, Jun 12, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2020
  12. Beretta

    Beretta Member

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    That is Sweet !
    I'm looking at a 70-Z50 Silver tag at the moment- Rusted Yes but Doable - Engine spins over- $600
    Worth it ? Cost to bring it back like Yours ?
     
  13. Gary

    Gary Well-Known Member

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    Guess it depends how complete it is. I'd be tempted if alot of parts just need refurbishment.Trashed bars,seat,tanks and fenders add up quick. By the way if it is a silver tag it is a 69 if that makes any difference to you. Post up a picture if you have them
     
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  14. Beretta

    Beretta Member

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    #54 Beretta, Jun 13, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2020
  15. Gary

    Gary Well-Known Member

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    Sadly I have seen better bikes than that last one parted out. That thing is a mess especially for 850. Whats your plan for use? The 81 is a more usable bike than a hard tail
     
  16. Texan

    Texan Active Member

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    I really didn't keep track (learned that when my CT70K0 refurb cost went into 4 digits). I only paid $60 for the bike, but most of the times you get what you pay for, so I think the cheap price evened out with all the work, time & money I put into it. Still not complete, so the price grows....:D
     
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  17. Texan

    Texan Active Member

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    Installed a better condition Shifter Pedal, clear blues fuel lines and replaced the original main harness battery connector plug that was brittle to match the new one coming off the Battery.

    Put a few miles on it today, it's running good. Feel like I might be riding it more often now.


    20200620_173854.jpg
     
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