Stator rebuild questions

[kevio]

I recently picked up a 69-70 CT70. I opened up the flywheel and discovered it only had one coil. I bought a rebuild kit from CHP but it didn't come with any instructions. Without the original coil I'm not sure about the connections. There is a green wire that looks like it goes from the top coil (then one with the pigtail of wires) to the points but it's too short if placed on top. Also, any tips for lining up the shim in the flywheel to the groove on the shaft?
Thanks,
Kevin

 

[curtie94]

Ok just looking at the primary coil you should have 2 wires coming from it. One end is grounded to the case, from the picture it looks like it is soldered to the coil, the other wire goes to the condenser.

Now looking at the condenser you have 3 wires. The one to the primary, one to the points and the other runs up in the harness to the secondary coil.

The lighting coil should have 3 wires, ground, and 2 power wires which runs to the harness.

If your issue is wire length from the points to the condenser you can make your own.

The green wire with the eyelet looks like the ground wire. You can just bolt it on the top of the coil using the screw.

 

[red69]

This should be of some help:

 

[kirrbby]

In pics #4&5...that is the lighting coil. The green wire with the loop goes on one of the screws that attach that coil to the stator plate. Put the screw thru that loop, then screw the coil to the plate. Done.

The other coil is the primary coil. It should mount to the lower spot on the plate. It should have 2 wires coming from it...one with a similar loop...that mounts the same as the loop on the lighting coil. Put the screw thru the loop before you screw down the coil. the other wire has nothing on it...it goes to the condenser. Done.

Then you need to solder the points wire, and the black wire that goes to the plastic plug, to the condenser. Complete...done...finished, except for setting the points gap.

The condenser should have 3 wires soldered to it...points wire, black from engine plug, and the wire from primary coil.

lilhonda REALLY needs a good thread that shows how a stator is wired up. These vendors who sell these kits REALLY need to provide some instructions.

If I get a good opportunity I'll post up some pics...if I can find a good example.

Your flywheel has a key in the keyway...that key should drop into the keyway on your crankshaft...which will properly align the flywheel to the shaft. Your crankshaft looks like hell. But the keyway looks to be...pretty much ok. Are you having trouble getting the flywheel on there correctly??

 

[curtie94]

To me the keyway looks sheared. it should sit in the crankshaft not stay in the rotor. It should have a rounded bottom on it to sit in the crank. I would get a new keyway. $3 assurance.

 

[Gary]

The taper is what holds the flywheel to the shaft,the key only holds it in the proper place until the flywheel is tightened down. That taper does look a mess, I would install the stator plate without the coils and leaving out the key use valve grinding compound to lap the flywheel to the crank much like lapping a valve. Put the bike in gear to keep the crank from turning as you do this. It will make them mate as well as they can until you decide if you have to replace them. Make sure you clean the flywheel and the crank snout and then clean them again before removing the stator plate.

 

[kevio]

This is exactly what I needed! Thanks!

 

[kevio]

Crankshaft seal

Thanks everyone. I got it all put together. I haven't ordered a new key yet, but I will. I have another question about the crankshaft seal. I've attached a picture. Does it just sit over that hole with the open side up? Or do I flip it so the groove on the seal sits in the lip around the flywheel? Thanks.

 

[darrel gunderson]

It looks like you still have some of the original metal seal in the aluminum stator plate? Try removing it carefully with a flat blade screwdriver then install the new one the way its now sitting in the pic.
Also in one of the first pictures it looked like your cam chain was stretched to the limit? Is there any movement left in the arm pushing down on the roller or is it hitting the case on top? You might want to consider replacing it now along with the roller or you will probably have some chain slap in the cylinder. Just a thought ........

 

[kevio]

The original seal was metal? When I pulled it off, it was just like the new (plastic?) one. There is still some in the groove. I've tried scraping it out but it's slow going. Any tricks to clean it out?

 

[kirrbby]

Those seals have come in different varieties over the years. The stator plate, with seal removed, is aluminum. No steel. Check it with a magnet. If it's steel it has to be removed to get the new seal in. Try putting a screwdriver just on the thin edge and rap it with your palm. Try to bend it toward the center of the hole so you can grab it with some needlenose pliers. The pull it out. Careful not to damage the stator plate. The seal goes in from the backside, and comes out from the backside. Good luck.

>>> The new seal goes in just like you have it laying in your pic. The open, spring side, always goes toward the oil.
When you install the new seal, it might help a little if you warm up the plate. Just put it in your pants for awhile, when it reaches 98.6° oil it up and press the seal in with your thumbs.
As a option you could warm it with a heat gun or hair dryer or something

 

[kevio]

You were totally right. The old seal must have had a metal center, covered in plastic. I pulled it out and the new one fit perfectly. Thanks for all the detail! One last question on this, what kind of sealant should I use on the backside to cover the screw that holds the metal clip that holds the wires on the front? I'm guessing it's some kind of high heat sealant.