Trans mounted clutch... TRX90

[kirrbby]

How about...if you just used weaker springs on the clutch shoes in this centrifugal clutch. Wouldn't that allow the clutch to engage quicker? Maybe even at idle? Or replace the springs with some that would push, rather than pull the shoes?

Then the clutch could still slip a bit on a hard gear change etc. Providing the cush(ion).

 

[kirrbby]

Pretty cool.

 

[69ST]

 

[69ST]

How about...if you just used weaker springs on the clutch shoes in this centrifugal clutch. Wouldn't that allow the clutch to engage quicker? Maybe even at idle? Or replace the springs with some that would push, rather than pull the shoes?

Then the clutch could still slip a bit on a hard gear change etc. Providing the cush(ion).

That might work. Be advised that, without some hardcore engineering data, spring testing equipment, a lot of math...and field testing...the effects of unknown spring swaps are wildly unpredictable. IMHO, normal centrifugal clutch action is a plus, with this setup...especially on an ATV. Keep in mind that the manual secondary clutch was not engineered to take all of the slip. The discs are a lot different than those used with other manual clutches; they have less friction material and what's there has different friction properties, mainly "sticktion" (an actual engineering term, meaning static friction) that makes clutch action more like a light switch.

FYI, your last statement is incorrect. Once the centrifugal clutch is above engagement rpm, it becomes a solid drive component. The clutch basket should have coil springs to take the hit of transient shock loading.

 

[kirrbby]

IMHO, normal centrifugal clutch action is a plus, with this setup...especially on an ATV.

I gotta agree there, SS LS1 was on to it all along. i was trying to think of what would be a downfall of having a centrifugal clutch, along with the hand clutch, on ANY bike?? I didn't really come up with anything. Maybe you could forget your in first gear at idle and goose the throttle accidentally. Maybe being able to start the bike while it's in gear, could be a problem..? Other than that, it's all good. nothing but perks.

 

[69ST]

I cannot think of any disadvantage(s). All you're doing is moving control of the manual clutch from the shifter to a hand lever. I guess it'll require a bit more operator skill to coordinate the clutch modulation with gear changes. But that's no different from any other manual clutch -equipped machine. Unless one is an inexperienced rider, seems like a non-issue, imo.

 

[kirrbby]

A old pic from a different thread.

 

[kirrbby]

Man, I'm feeling really good about the cover I ordered. They messaged me to make sure the part would fit my motor. They sent a couple of pictures.

Everything is looking good so far.

 

[Cleato904]

Kirby your correct about the sub gear on the centrifcal clutch hub, The split gear is in place to quiet down the load that's between them and helps with the noise chatter. Honda uses the same setup on the new PIONEER 1000 and its a real bear to just to get them lined up. Honda uses it on many lager units. The one way sprag bearing found in the centrifcal clutch when it's worn out you'll loose all engine breaking and when you turn off the motor you'll hear it wind down. Mainly that happens with ATVs that have been sunk in the swamps and are full of sand.

 

[Cleato904]

The set up your going to end up with will be similar to the Honda TRX250X 2013 with the sport clutch, it's the same setup as the trx90 with the exception of there's a clutch release arm and clutch lever like on a manual transmission. You can shift with or without using the clutch. Honda did this design to help people learn how to use a clutch.

 

[Cleato904]

Will you be welding the centrifcal clutch like the one in the video.

 

[kirrbby]

Thanks Cleato904, good info.
I don't plan to weld the clutch, I want it to remain operational, along with the oil spinner.

I haven't got the new clutch cover yet. The seller said they would be shipping it after Christmas, so maybe it's on the way. I'm hoping it will bolt right up and...work.

 

[loopiemclooperson]

Couldn't remember if you had bought a trx90 crank gear with your takegawa bits, but it looks like chp is blowing them out.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/253235933294

 

[kirrbby]

Couldn't remember if you had bought a trx90 crank gear with your takegawa bits, but it looks like chp is blowing them out.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/253235933294

I bought the wrong one from webike. Then I bought that one that you linked, from CHP thru ebay. That's a good buy, and the price shown is OBO.

 

[loopiemclooperson]

Did it come complete like they show on the website, or was it just the primary gear?

Good to know on the obo.

 

[kirrbby]

It is just the gear. I bought those other parts thru webike. And the oiling tube... I think I got thru webike too. I don't remember for sure. Those are all parts picked from the Takegawa special clutch kit schematic. The parts we're discussing now are to be used for the FULL MANUAL clutch engine that I plan to build later on. With the Taky clutch cover.

 

[kirrbby]

Well it took a while, but I got my clutch cover kit today. It's a winner. It doesn't quite look like the picture, but it's made like the NICE 110 cover.

I've dry fit it onto my motor, and verified the crankshaft fit using some clay. I need some spinner screws with a low profile head, then I'll do a better mock up and confirm the fit to the shift shaft too. It came with a needle bearing for the shift shaft.
I'm happy.

 

[fatcaaat]

Ok...where's the update?

 

[kirrbby]

UPDATE:

Button head screws installed in place of the stock, socket heads. They still rub, but not by much. The inside edge of the screw heads rub the outer edge of the 2 cast-in standoffs on this cover. I'll grind a smidge off the cover, leaving plenty of the standoff intact...I think they serve a purpose, and are meant to keep the clutch from moving too far right.

The clay shows no problems with the shift shaft or the crank, as best I can figure. Everything lines up and fits, with at least a little clearance. This cover is the ONE.

 

[kirrbby]

With the cover installed, the little clutch pusher has to move about 4mm before it touches the bearing on the mainshaft clutch. That's a little too much IMO. The clutch arm, that the cable attaches to, has to move about 1.25" for the pusher to reach the clutch bearing...too much.

I think the head on the pusher needs to be thicker. It's 2mm thick now, I think I want it to be 4mm thick. That's where I'm at...lookin to make a new pusher out of a hardened bolt. I kinda have a plan, to get somethin made that I can work with for starters. I may have to make a different one after all is up and workin/running with a clutch cable installed. Or I could hit it close enough on the first try...we'll see how it goes.

Once I get a acceptable pusher made up, I think I'm ready to take my engine apart, then put it back together with the new kick shaft, and with this nifty clutch cover.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^forgot a dimension...8mm.^^^^^^^^^^