Yikes! Couldn't help buying this motor.

Discussion in 'FOR SALE on eBay' started by Adam-NLV, Aug 26, 2013.

  1. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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    This Auction had or best offer button, so I shot him an offer of $60...and he took it.

    Don't know the ENG no. It's a 72 and looks like it's oeiginal an not been opened.
    It comes with foot pegs, kickstand, two rusty levers plus points cover. The cover doesn't look cracked.
    Has compression but no fire.
    I got a feeling when I clean this up and fix the electrical, it just may run.

    My Ct-itis flared up again!
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-72-HON...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e13ff5ac&vxp=mtr
     
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  3. Tripod

    Tripod Active Member

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    Let us know how it turns out.
     
  4. hornetgod

    hornetgod Well-Known Member

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    Worth the gamble at that price. It could be parted out for 3 times what you paid for it, if you decide you don't want it. Loose that scary kick stand spring. Based on the footpegs, it either a K1 or HK1 engine. Did the seller tell you if it was a 3 or 4 speed?
     
    #3 hornetgod, Aug 27, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2013
  5. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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    No, he didn't say...
    Those were my thoughts when i bought it, worth the gamble at that price and to maybe use on my 71 HK1. Unfortunately, after zooming in on the picture w/windows picture viewer I could see the top of the automatic clutch cover on the other side, so it's a 3 speed I think, I hope I'm wrong though. The kick start & shift splines look straight tho.

    I've seen that magneto housing & round points cover go for > 60 bucks when polished, if it's not cracked. The engine looks to me that it was running when it was pulled...How? The color of the engine gunk (grease) on the back end looks fairly fresh & the intake port still has the manifold gasket stuck to it.

    As the wise man once said; we'll see.
     
    #4 Adam-NLV, Aug 27, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2013
  6. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    He ran that as a auction first with a $50 starting bid, no reserve. I was planning to bid on it around 3:30 my time, however it actually ended around 2:30, whoops. Missed it. It never got a bid. You did well Adam.
     
  7. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Kby, eBay can be a funny place sometimes, a lot of it depends on timing and a mouse click.

    There are good deals to be found...I hope this turns out to be one of em.
     
  8. DFull

    DFull Member

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    Based on it's neutral switch its a K1 engine.
     
  9. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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    Got my engine today. It has a 6 digit eng no# 224 971 So is it a k0 or K1? it does have the neutral sw wire...

    The good news is that it looks totally original, the point cover isn't cracked splines are good and no broken eng fins or such. the bad news is that the compression feels low because the motor spins pretty darn easy and still has a spark plug in it.

    Can't clean it up today because we have monsoon season & having lighting in the air. Not into that...
    I think it was a pretty good deal.


    View attachment 17830 View attachment 17829 View attachment 17831 View attachment 17832 View attachment 17833 View attachment 17834
     
  10. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    I'd say from the engine #'s and the neutral switch, it's a K1. The footpegs look identical to my K1's original. What's the head number? It's really fortunate the points cover isn't cracked.
     
  11. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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    E9 10 on the head. the jug # is Hm D4 What does that mean?

    Checked the trans & shifts good.

    View attachment 17835
     
  12. hornetgod

    hornetgod Well-Known Member

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    K1 and HK1 models had seven digit frame VIN and 6 digit engine numbers. It's a K1 engine.
     
  13. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    K1 pic 1.jpg k1 pic 2.jpg
    These are the head #'s from my original K1. They are very close to yours. I really wish I knew exactly what they mean. The engine # is 246598. MFG date on frame tag is 3/72.
     
  14. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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  15. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    Q1. No.
    Q2. I use the same impact driver I use on the case screws and to put it back on. I also mark the nut position with a black sharpie before removing.
     
    #14 cjpayne, Sep 1, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2013
  16. ez50

    ez50 Well-Known Member

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    Ya, when the bug hits its hard to resist sometimes. Doubt if buyers remorse will get you though. Seems solid and will be a great project. Doing your first one will be cool. Crank threads are rt handed and nuts come off quickly with an impact. Worry about the torque later. I would advise to do all your scrubbing before you crack it open.
    On one that looks like yours, without a lot of oil & grime, the shafts could be pitted at the seals. A leaky motor actually saves the exterior finish. A BB stroker sure would be fun.
    I think this impulse buy is going to work out.
     
  17. Tripod

    Tripod Active Member

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    You think you should adjust the valves then recheck the compression before you crack that nut?
     
  18. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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    Nah, I don't think I'm that lucky. I think the top end will need to be reworked. It would be nice to just get away with a valve & ring job. The trans shifts smoothly and splines are great. I'm still glad I got it but will do my first rebuild and keep it stock....maybe. lol
     
  19. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    I bet you could get away with just replacing the clutch springs, discs, head rebuild, and new piston/rings. Did you put a little oil in the cylinder before checking compression? Just curious.
     
  20. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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    Hey CJ, nope sure didn't and doubt that would help this little guy. Even my 81' eng would kinda blow your finger off of the spark plug hole (90 PSI) this one, not even close.

    I decided that i'll make this motor my first stock rebuild, to mostly learn about the process, that way I'll feel better about rebuilding the JH2 81' to a 110cc. I'm gonna try and make this a true budget build and would even consider used (but good) eng parts minus rings, gaskets of course.
    Be prepared for some dumb questions while I stumble through it...lol
     
  21. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    If you end up needing a cylinder jug for it, I've got a good unbored one I'll donate to the cause. I also have some various engine parts also, clutch, head parts, ect. Just let me know. When removing the flywheel, be careful not to damage the coils, it's easy to do. Been there-done that.lol
     
    #20 cjpayne, Sep 2, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2013

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