Z50a K3 - Revitalization

Gary

Well-Known Member
Throttles from new never returned. Just make sure everything is clean and in good shape in the grip and lubed with an oily grease like Lubriplate 100,don't use a sticky type grease.
 

Jmunk

Active Member
I got the handlebars polished and bolted down. Here is a picture of my low budget polishing setup. I’m using a $4.99 Harbor Freight wheel kit with the white stick that came with it.

I’m happy with the condition of most of the parts considering the age.

Looking at my bag of parts for the front axle I have the axle, axle nut, spaced, flat washer and lock washer. Doesn’t appear the front axle should have the lock washer?
 

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Jmunk

Active Member
Process is slow as my free time is limited. I put new points and a condenser in while the engine was on the bench. It fired up, I need to get the exhaust cleaned up and reinstalled.

Can anyone give me a rough estimate of what the distance is the handlebars should be apart when measured at the bar ends? Mine are about 18.5”. Also, what’s the best/easiest way to bend then.
 

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allenp42

Well-Known Member
I just checked 4 bikes - all with used bars - and I saw ~18" to about 20". I would think you're in the ballpark. I have a NOS set but they have never been out of the bag to measure.
 

Jmunk

Active Member
Thanks, my bars seem very symmetrical but seem to be turned inward more then I recall as a kid.

What’s everyone take? Bent inward too much?
 

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allenp42

Well-Known Member
They may be bent toward the OP a little more than mine. Will try to duplicate the pic with one of mine.

Can you send me a close up view of the welds on the right hand perch? Just want to make sure that I'm looking at OEM Honda bars. It may be pic blur or the angle of the pic, but if the weld on the perch looks like it was "welded", then you may have aftermarket bars. OEM honda bars are brazed, and I think CHP's are as well. I don't think they are AFT by looking at the mount to the holder but just want to be sure.
 
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allenp42

Well-Known Member
Here's a pic of the handle bars on a 74 that I'm working on. It does look like the handle bars on your bike sweep back a little more than mine. However, no guarantees that mine is correct either.
 

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Jmunk

Active Member
When you get a chance can you put a tape measure on yours?

Here is a picture of the front brake perch.
 

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allenp42

Well-Known Member
I have used 2 different methods to widen the handle bars. One is to use a small import car jack in-between the bars close to the top and "jack" em apart. This is the simplest method but not without risks. You depending on both bars moving the same amount, which is unlikely to yield perfect results. It makes "bad" bends look better but is no means perfect. The risks are you may crack the handle bar mount, end up with 1 of the 2 bent a little more than the other, and in extreme cases start twisting the bar close to the mount. You have to be careful. It's just something you have to be aware of.

The other method method requires the use of 1/2" rigid tubing bender. Works well but, have to do one bar at a time, may still crack the mount, but results can be as good as your bending skills are and home much effort and time you put into make them perfect.

It all depends on how close to perfection you're trying to attain, and your skill level at using a tubing bender?

For sure, don't even think about using a pipe wrench. Seen way too many with teeth marks on the bars.

Will post some pics tomorrow, and maybe this will give time for others to weigh in.
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
A long pipe over the end of the handle is the best way I've found. Helps to have a friend hold the bike steady too.
 

allenp42

Well-Known Member
Here's an idea only slightly more complicated than what CJ posted above. This is an import car jack (I think), with HDPE tape (tough Polyethylene) on each contact surface. The intent is to protect the bars from scratches. Leather works so does many other items.

Slowly jack them apart. It helps to have someone watching/helping by adding a little more oomph on one side or the other, if needed.

I've done this maybe once or twice and never had a problem. I now use a mount that is attached to section of angle iron so it can be clamped in a vice. Then use a tubing bender to tweak each bar individually. Takes a little more skill, good vice, and a 2nd set of eyes, and takes a little more time. Results are usually pretty good.
 

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Jmunk

Active Member
Getting closer, time isn’t on my side at the moment so progreas is slow.

Need to extract some broken fasteners from the muffler and then clean/paint. I may just cut the nuts off the muffler and weld on new ones to make things easy.

Need the left side panel painted and installed.

I’m in the home stretch, just need some free time

Looing at the costs, all in with the cost of the bike and parts will be $650-$700. I wanted to keep the cost reasonable and not invest an unreasonable amount. In the end 90% of the parts are the original and have just been cleaned up.
 

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allenp42

Well-Known Member
Nice looking bike. You should happy with how it looks today. Not a bad investment at this stage of the game. Getting free time can be the most difficult/painful task of all especially when you start seeing light at the end of the tunnel.
 

Jmunk

Active Member
Time hasn’t been on my side the past few months but we got the bike finished. Everything works but the rear taillight, haven’t investigated the issue yet.

Thanks for the help.
 

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