Recent content by CTdave

take me to the river

new photo , old bike Dave

I used the penny but had the same problem. I used some channel lock pliers with a rag over them and gripped the whole clutch assembly with the penny in the gear also. Are you using the clutch nut tool?Dave

I was going to guess earth rotation. bikes in the southern hemisphere have mostly right handlebar damage.:) Dave

seems like I had to take the seat hinge off first.

here is mine

You are welcome:yellow70: Dave

not sure what year your bike is but on a KO-K3 the brown with red is hot going from key switch to the high/low switch. then from high/low switch white is low beam hot and blue is high beam hot. make sure the key is turned fully clockwise (position II) and the engine must be running to get power...

I wanted one since 1970 . I had a Rupp Roadster back then. My buddy had a gold CT70 KO. My Rupp broke all the time and his Honda just kept on going. Finally bought my first one in 1994 brand new. I was 35. Then I sold it for some dumb reason. In 1999 I purchased the gold 1970 CT70 KO I have...

I saw my wife ride a bicycle and thats all I needed to see to know she didn't belong on a motorcycle. And if she did crash it would be my fault even if I was miles away.

Dan I agree. DrATV has a good web site. Good prices also. Classic needs to bring their site up to 21st century standards.Trail Bikes site is good also. Dave

I never could get my old carb to run right even after much cleaning and rebuilding. And it was in good shape. I bought the $69. DRATV carb about 5 years ago and have no regrets. worked good with the stock cable . It is 18mm (stock is 16mm) . My 1970 Ct70 KO is now 85cc but the carb worked great...

to set the timing remove the left engine cover or if you have the timing cover just remove it(round cover with 2 phillips screws with Honda on it) . rotate the flywheel counter clockwise and look for a "F" on the flywheel . align the F with a small mark or arrow near the top of the cover . look...

The throttle cable goes thru the cap , then thru the spring and attaches to the slide. the spring just sits on top of the slide held in place by the cap. you should take your right grip off and shoot some wd40 on the moving parts. you don't have to take it apart. you can access it thru the end...

Thats what I want. A 32cc little bore kit with 10mm carb and a low profile cam.Oh and a shortie stroke crank ,small valve head , and restricted flow muffler. It will run wide open all day and never over heat and be quite as a wisper.:D Dave