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I found some decals but I can’t find anywhere where they are supposed to go. Searched google and here. Other than that I’m about ready to fire this thing up. I’ve never broken in a cam on an air cooled engine. Is it the usual let it idle for 30min varying the rpm? Have a big fan blowing on it...

Getting near the end. I do have some parts I could use help identifying. I do have to keep in mind that I found a bag labeled “62 impala bumper bolts” so they may not even go to this. I lucked out on the oil leak. Just the gasket on the stator plate. So glad it’s not coming from the case

I didn't see any spec for the shift forks. They looked fine. Not bent or overly worn. It shifts fine and now that the engines back together and in the frame it's a bit late. I do have an oil leak that I can't track down. I think it's where the 2 halves mate which is not encouraging. Before...

Picture dump. There’s lots more but they take awhile to upload

I got it on. All the bolts/nuts loose. Took my longest pry bar and a heat gun. Heated up the bends. Put the pry bar between the center mount and the frame and I was able to get it on the stud. I guessed at the exhaust nut torque to 7-ftlbs. I'll see when I fire it up if it leaks. All I have left...

[/ATTACH] My shift forks looked good. I've been meaning to do a picture dump to show how nicely this is all going together but right now I'm fighting the exhaust. First the rear mount was missing so I bought that. Total guess but I can't see how else it would work. Took the nut holding...

So logic wins again. The larger relief goes with the larger intake valve. I couldn’t tell from the picture in my shop manual. It’s this guys fault for the confusion. http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot.com/2012/10/ct70-piston-cylinder-head-genny.html?m=1

I’m putting the new piston in but it does not have an arrow on it. I was going to go with logic that the larger valve relief would go on the intake valve side but I read somewhere that the opposite is true. Can someone please verify which valve relief goes with which valve? I’d hate to do all...

Split the case. Have .012” between the rod and crank. Everything looks pretty good to me. Going to throw it in the parts washer and give everything a once over.

So don’t bother opening up the swing arm? Pullers came. Clutch frictions look newer and measured well within spec. Springs aren’t new but still in spec. I didn’t see a spec for the steels. Waiting to split the case and pull the oil pump till the jis drivers come

I’m trying to come up with a bulk order since the partzilla shipping is starting to add up. I’m getting the fork guides and the oil seals. The clutch pack,crank bearings. That bearing that sits outside the clutch. Points condenser if available. I’ll hold off on the coil for now. I already have...

So i took the fork inards apart. Is this collar that the roll pin goes through, is the plastic supposed to be split? Seems it’s to small to fit without the split

So this is a fork design I’m not familiar with. I was getting conflicting info as to whether or not it had oil in it. I even bought an oil seal but alas that’s was when I thought I had a k1. The bike came with new (white plastic) guides. Looks newly greased. Not sure if I need to do anything here

I stand corrected and totally jinxed myself. I'm buying jis drivers now. I've been doing this for years and have never had much trouble. Usually swapped them for hex or Allen anyways. Until I met these 3 flat heads on the clutch. You can only see 1 the pic but I'm not doing that again...

I have most of the tools you mentioned. Hand impact is a must for old carbs. I do not nor will I probably ever own jis screwdrivers. Never needed them. I’ve restored an 85 CB450, 85 CB650 and my current bike is an 84 CB700s. Though this engine is more similar to the single cylinder, semi auto...

This is exactly why I joined the forum. Thank you. I have no problem splitting the cases or spending money. I have very little in it right now and I know they can sell for good money. Not that I have any intention of selling but I always go into these builds with the mindset that I will. My time...

So it’s the last of the k0’s? As long as the parts I’m ordering are the same for both it’s nbd. You are correct that the crack was right at the exhaust port but it was most of the left side. It broke flush with the gasket surface. I probably could of gotten away with it but looking at the deep...

I was just going off the tags. The frame says CT70-201321. The engine says CT70E-200879. From what I found, if it starts with a 2 it's a k1. I have no history on this bike

Hello Forum, I'm Mike from NJ. I recently acquired a CT70K1. When I got it was a roller and everything else in boxes. So far I put the handlebars (which I now see are bent) on, new tires, new brake shoes, new wheel bearings, sandblasted/painted seat pan and recovered the seat. The engine had...