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1973 build with grom forks
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<blockquote data-quote="fatcaaat" data-source="post: 184305" data-attributes="member: 1656"><p>Yeah, sorry about that as this was put together in about 6 weeks time and I honestly didn't think it was much of a project other than getting the forks together. For someone that wants to swap out the grom forks, it's a bit of work and will require the use of both a lathe and a mill. You'll need to mill the top tree to remove the ignition stuff...approximately 1.25" deep across the 7.5" length of the tree. You'll also need to mill the backside of the lower tree so the steering stop works correctly. You'll need to rut the weld on the bottom tree out and then press the old stem out. Then put a different stem in there. I had a G'craft stem here I purchased a few years ago...and the bottom area designed so it won't slip through the lower tree was only 1mm larger than the hole, so instead I made a sleeve that fit over the stem in the same diameter and put it in the lathe to cut it down to the same diameter as the lower hole. I drilled and tapped the bottom of the stem to 1/2"-20 threads 1.5" deep. I then pressed the stem in and used a thick washer and a grade 8 bolt in the bottom to prevent stem pull-through. Lastly, I used taper bearings and at the top I took an original spanner bolt and put it in the lathe and cut it down to about .35" thick with the last 1/4" trimmed to stick up into the top trees so that it fits tight. </p><p></p><p>There was enough room to have the bottlenecked grom fork legs fit correctly in the lower trees but the bike sits about 1/2" taller in the front. I can move the forks in the trees up about another 1/4" but that's it which splits the difference. I am running 335mm rear shocks, so it will even out perfectly when I do this. </p><p></p><p>For the front wheel, I am running a chinese billet hub and wheel star mated to the stock rims with a 220mm disc and the stock Nissin caliper from the grom. Other than custom wheel spacers to get it aligned, no funny business was needed. </p><p></p><p>I cheaped out on the headlight, which was a mistake. Anyone that ever sees a Krator LED headlight, avoid them at all costs...I dont' think this thing throws any more light than a stock 6v CT70 headlight. I'll fix that at some point. </p><p></p><p>Other neat parts on this build include a custom footrest assembly from Racerx, which is the best setup available for these bikes. I have another set on another bike. Also, the original Jailing stator assembly was a two-lead AC setup where you have to put one end to ground...the leads are together but grounded. I had a cheapie setup I purchased a couple of years ago that is actually a single-line wrapped over 5 prongs that's floating...hence can be used for a full-wave DC conversion at about 55 watts.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="fatcaaat, post: 184305, member: 1656"] Yeah, sorry about that as this was put together in about 6 weeks time and I honestly didn't think it was much of a project other than getting the forks together. For someone that wants to swap out the grom forks, it's a bit of work and will require the use of both a lathe and a mill. You'll need to mill the top tree to remove the ignition stuff...approximately 1.25" deep across the 7.5" length of the tree. You'll also need to mill the backside of the lower tree so the steering stop works correctly. You'll need to rut the weld on the bottom tree out and then press the old stem out. Then put a different stem in there. I had a G'craft stem here I purchased a few years ago...and the bottom area designed so it won't slip through the lower tree was only 1mm larger than the hole, so instead I made a sleeve that fit over the stem in the same diameter and put it in the lathe to cut it down to the same diameter as the lower hole. I drilled and tapped the bottom of the stem to 1/2"-20 threads 1.5" deep. I then pressed the stem in and used a thick washer and a grade 8 bolt in the bottom to prevent stem pull-through. Lastly, I used taper bearings and at the top I took an original spanner bolt and put it in the lathe and cut it down to about .35" thick with the last 1/4" trimmed to stick up into the top trees so that it fits tight. There was enough room to have the bottlenecked grom fork legs fit correctly in the lower trees but the bike sits about 1/2" taller in the front. I can move the forks in the trees up about another 1/4" but that's it which splits the difference. I am running 335mm rear shocks, so it will even out perfectly when I do this. For the front wheel, I am running a chinese billet hub and wheel star mated to the stock rims with a 220mm disc and the stock Nissin caliper from the grom. Other than custom wheel spacers to get it aligned, no funny business was needed. I cheaped out on the headlight, which was a mistake. Anyone that ever sees a Krator LED headlight, avoid them at all costs...I dont' think this thing throws any more light than a stock 6v CT70 headlight. I'll fix that at some point. Other neat parts on this build include a custom footrest assembly from Racerx, which is the best setup available for these bikes. I have another set on another bike. Also, the original Jailing stator assembly was a two-lead AC setup where you have to put one end to ground...the leads are together but grounded. I had a cheapie setup I purchased a couple of years ago that is actually a single-line wrapped over 5 prongs that's floating...hence can be used for a full-wave DC conversion at about 55 watts. [/QUOTE]
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