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General Minitrail Talk
Projects/Builds
1975 CB125S
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 186924" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>First tank I chemically de-rusted took 5 days of soaking, punctuated with vigorous shaking...a couple handfuls of old nuts & bolts added. That was using phosphoric acid, in 80F weather. It turned out beautifully. The KREEM sealer remains intact, just yellowed from fuel exposure, 19 years later. </p><p></p><p>Most tanks take less than 72 hours. The longest acid-soak took five weeks(!)...using distilled vinegar. It turned out beautifully but developed flash rust almost immediately after rinsing with hot water. A brief hit of phosphoric acid cleaned the flash rust. As yet, I've not figured out a reliable & repeatable way to prevent flash rust with anything but phosphoric acid, other than a generous shot of WD40. </p><p></p><p>With chemical rust removal, there's almost no such thing as too much patience. And, usually, that means an extra day or two. It's the difference between a successful result from a sealer kit and a godawful failure. If you do opt to one day seal the tank, the POR-15 is more forgiving. KREEM will fail if the prep is less than perfect; but, a white tank interior lets you see how much garbage has accumulated.</p><p></p><p>I don't blame you for wanting to avoid using sealer. And, while some light rust is all but unavoidable, its presence isn't necessarily cause for alarm. Keeping the tank either full of fuel, or empty & fogged, should keep the tinworm from invading. Most steel tanks has a little bit of surface rust. Clear, inline, fuel filters are not only good protection, they're a damn good way to tell when there's a problem. If you see an appreciable amount of rust grains, it's time to do something about it. That might never happen. Worst case, it won't take you long to prep & seal. I doubt you'd let it get that far.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 186924, member: 5"] First tank I chemically de-rusted took 5 days of soaking, punctuated with vigorous shaking...a couple handfuls of old nuts & bolts added. That was using phosphoric acid, in 80F weather. It turned out beautifully. The KREEM sealer remains intact, just yellowed from fuel exposure, 19 years later. Most tanks take less than 72 hours. The longest acid-soak took five weeks(!)...using distilled vinegar. It turned out beautifully but developed flash rust almost immediately after rinsing with hot water. A brief hit of phosphoric acid cleaned the flash rust. As yet, I've not figured out a reliable & repeatable way to prevent flash rust with anything but phosphoric acid, other than a generous shot of WD40. With chemical rust removal, there's almost no such thing as too much patience. And, usually, that means an extra day or two. It's the difference between a successful result from a sealer kit and a godawful failure. If you do opt to one day seal the tank, the POR-15 is more forgiving. KREEM will fail if the prep is less than perfect; but, a white tank interior lets you see how much garbage has accumulated. I don't blame you for wanting to avoid using sealer. And, while some light rust is all but unavoidable, its presence isn't necessarily cause for alarm. Keeping the tank either full of fuel, or empty & fogged, should keep the tinworm from invading. Most steel tanks has a little bit of surface rust. Clear, inline, fuel filters are not only good protection, they're a damn good way to tell when there's a problem. If you see an appreciable amount of rust grains, it's time to do something about it. That might never happen. Worst case, it won't take you long to prep & seal. I doubt you'd let it get that far. [/QUOTE]
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