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Other Honda Mini Trails
CT90, CT110, ST70, ST90 Discussion
Back with a CT110, electrical issue
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 175418" data-attributes="member: 5"><p><a href="http://ct90-ct110.com/PDFs/1982_CT110_Wiring_Diagram_PDF.pdf" target="_blank">Here is a wiring diagram</a> that (as described) covers your 1983 model. </p><p></p><p>Here's the same image, copied from dratv:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]58815[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I've worked on Honda electrics that were on-par with this, in terms of complexity. That said, it's all been custom stuff and I've never tried going through the electrical system of a CT110. IOW, you're pretty well on your own with this one. Best I can offer is some generalized info to help you begin the process.</p><p></p><p>If I'm reading the schematic correctly, this bike has a full-wave electrical system, meaning that everything is fed DC, from the battery...with full alternator output being fed to the battery, via bridge-diode rectifier. If your rectifier has failed, then I'd expect to see more than a fraction of one volt AC coming through to the battery. The surefire fix would be OEM, or at least stock-type, replacement parts. Otherwise, it'll boil down to finding someone who really knows their way around this electrical system, or trial & error testing. </p><p></p><p>As for converting to 12v, you've heard of "bench testing" and "bench racing", right? "Bench (desk?) daydreaming" sez that measuring alternator output, using a voltmeter (set to AC), across the two outputs will give a good indication. I'd want to see well above 12V by ~3000-4000rpm. If you see, say 20V by ~3500rpm and values in the 30-50VAC range at cruising rpm (5000-7000), a full-wave 12v reg/rec unit ought to do what you want. Then, there's a full set of bulbs, 12v battery and flasher relay to source...which opens the floodgates on 2018 technology.</p><p></p><p>Hopefully, I've not caused any migraines...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 175418, member: 5"] [URL='http://ct90-ct110.com/PDFs/1982_CT110_Wiring_Diagram_PDF.pdf']Here is a wiring diagram[/URL] that (as described) covers your 1983 model. Here's the same image, copied from dratv: [ATTACH=full]58815[/ATTACH] I've worked on Honda electrics that were on-par with this, in terms of complexity. That said, it's all been custom stuff and I've never tried going through the electrical system of a CT110. IOW, you're pretty well on your own with this one. Best I can offer is some generalized info to help you begin the process. If I'm reading the schematic correctly, this bike has a full-wave electrical system, meaning that everything is fed DC, from the battery...with full alternator output being fed to the battery, via bridge-diode rectifier. If your rectifier has failed, then I'd expect to see more than a fraction of one volt AC coming through to the battery. The surefire fix would be OEM, or at least stock-type, replacement parts. Otherwise, it'll boil down to finding someone who really knows their way around this electrical system, or trial & error testing. As for converting to 12v, you've heard of "bench testing" and "bench racing", right? "Bench (desk?) daydreaming" sez that measuring alternator output, using a voltmeter (set to AC), across the two outputs will give a good indication. I'd want to see well above 12V by ~3000-4000rpm. If you see, say 20V by ~3500rpm and values in the 30-50VAC range at cruising rpm (5000-7000), a full-wave 12v reg/rec unit ought to do what you want. Then, there's a full set of bulbs, 12v battery and flasher relay to source...which opens the floodgates on 2018 technology. Hopefully, I've not caused any migraines... [/QUOTE]
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CT90, CT110, ST70, ST90 Discussion
Back with a CT110, electrical issue
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