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The Gastank
Exhaust hardware removal.
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 183431" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>You're not going to like the answer. This requires "the blue wrench". Heat the nut until it's bright cherry red, then using either Vise Grips or a BMF pair of Channelock pliers, it will unscrew...complaining loudly. If that turns out to be impossible, the manifold can be heated instead (right at the threaded flange) then the stud can be unscrewed...and replaced. This is one old-school technique that hasn't changed. Cast iron tolerates extreme heating quite well. </p><p></p><p>The only other option is splitting the nut. A cutoff wheel works quickly...but...there's oftentimes insufficient room to use one, plus collateral damage is all but guaranteed. A nut splitter is safer, if you can source one. Once the nut has an open slot, it's loose. It's also possible to use it on opposite sides of the nut, cutting it (reasonably) neatly into two pieces and just peel off what remains, if anything. The stud threads should be chased, then coated with high-temp antiseize compound.</p><p></p><p>BTW, I've tried a number of different methods to prevent this from happening in the first place. Antiseize compound, during assembly, helps a bit. Believe it, or not, garden-variety grade 5 (or the metric equivalent 10.9) fasteners and the "blue wrench" for removal, once (inevitably) rusted is one of the better ways to go. Stainless studs + nuts tend to seize, though not as badly, leading to partially galled threads. Brass hex nuts are probably the best, with both steel and stainless studs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 183431, member: 5"] You're not going to like the answer. This requires "the blue wrench". Heat the nut until it's bright cherry red, then using either Vise Grips or a BMF pair of Channelock pliers, it will unscrew...complaining loudly. If that turns out to be impossible, the manifold can be heated instead (right at the threaded flange) then the stud can be unscrewed...and replaced. This is one old-school technique that hasn't changed. Cast iron tolerates extreme heating quite well. The only other option is splitting the nut. A cutoff wheel works quickly...but...there's oftentimes insufficient room to use one, plus collateral damage is all but guaranteed. A nut splitter is safer, if you can source one. Once the nut has an open slot, it's loose. It's also possible to use it on opposite sides of the nut, cutting it (reasonably) neatly into two pieces and just peel off what remains, if anything. The stud threads should be chased, then coated with high-temp antiseize compound. BTW, I've tried a number of different methods to prevent this from happening in the first place. Antiseize compound, during assembly, helps a bit. Believe it, or not, garden-variety grade 5 (or the metric equivalent 10.9) fasteners and the "blue wrench" for removal, once (inevitably) rusted is one of the better ways to go. Stainless studs + nuts tend to seize, though not as badly, leading to partially galled threads. Brass hex nuts are probably the best, with both steel and stainless studs. [/QUOTE]
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Exhaust hardware removal.
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