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Exhaust issue
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 178418" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>Removing the exhaust pipe fragment is the easier of the two repairs. If you have a drill press, a series of small holes could be drilled into the flange, along its circumference. The more metal you can remove, around the circumference of the flange, the more flexible it will be and the easier it will be to break the rust bond between it & the head. The final aspect of the extraction involves slicing the the thick flange pipe. That's where you may learn to appreciate the "missing metal", the gap surrounding the lower side of the port. If you can drill a decent-sized hole here, it'll be easier to slice with a saw, or carbide burr. When you finally have one complete slice through the flange, it will be possible to break the bond, using a hammer & chisel. Still won't be easy, especially getting the initial movement. But, once you manage to get the steel to begin breaking away from the aluminum, things should progress rapidly.</p><p></p><p>The more difficult repair will be R&Ring the broken studs. Those should be precision-drilled, easy for a machine shop...for everyone else, not so much. A machinist should be able to drill & re-thread the holes, no inserts needed.</p><p></p><p>Finally, the casting will probably benefit from a serious cleanup, including glass bead blasting of the exhaust port area to remove all traces of iron oxide. All of this is much more easily accomplished with the head off the engine.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 178418, member: 5"] Removing the exhaust pipe fragment is the easier of the two repairs. If you have a drill press, a series of small holes could be drilled into the flange, along its circumference. The more metal you can remove, around the circumference of the flange, the more flexible it will be and the easier it will be to break the rust bond between it & the head. The final aspect of the extraction involves slicing the the thick flange pipe. That's where you may learn to appreciate the "missing metal", the gap surrounding the lower side of the port. If you can drill a decent-sized hole here, it'll be easier to slice with a saw, or carbide burr. When you finally have one complete slice through the flange, it will be possible to break the bond, using a hammer & chisel. Still won't be easy, especially getting the initial movement. But, once you manage to get the steel to begin breaking away from the aluminum, things should progress rapidly. The more difficult repair will be R&Ring the broken studs. Those should be precision-drilled, easy for a machine shop...for everyone else, not so much. A machinist should be able to drill & re-thread the holes, no inserts needed. Finally, the casting will probably benefit from a serious cleanup, including glass bead blasting of the exhaust port area to remove all traces of iron oxide. All of this is much more easily accomplished with the head off the engine. [/QUOTE]
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