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General Minitrail Talk
Projects/Builds
How do you prep your frames?
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 189612" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>You can get away with using sand, steel grit, garnet abrasive, even aluminum oxide. IMO, the best media is glass bead. It can be slower than the others just mentioned. However, it removes virtually zero solid metal and leaves behind the optimal surface finish...clean, "white" metal, with no "profile" , i.e. sandpaper-like texture.</p><p></p><p>I agree with Rick's prep method, filler applied directly to bare metal. That allows optimal bonding. In warm ambient air temps, scratch filler (all that it needed to fill rust pits) will set quick, can be sanded then sealed with epoxy primer-sealer within 24 hours. Applying an extra coat, or two, over the filled areas allows for shrinkage. I like to give the primer & filler 48-72 hours to cure, outgas & shrink, before final blocksanding. A week is even better. </p><p></p><p>If you're going for perfection, be prepared for a second round of scratch filler & fine blocksanding. Small imperfections cannot be seen until the part (especially a frame) is one, uniform, color...and viewed with low-angle lighting. More accurately, I'm talking about the little stuff that becomes an eye magnet only after the bike is assembled.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 189612, member: 5"] You can get away with using sand, steel grit, garnet abrasive, even aluminum oxide. IMO, the best media is glass bead. It can be slower than the others just mentioned. However, it removes virtually zero solid metal and leaves behind the optimal surface finish...clean, "white" metal, with no "profile" , i.e. sandpaper-like texture. I agree with Rick's prep method, filler applied directly to bare metal. That allows optimal bonding. In warm ambient air temps, scratch filler (all that it needed to fill rust pits) will set quick, can be sanded then sealed with epoxy primer-sealer within 24 hours. Applying an extra coat, or two, over the filled areas allows for shrinkage. I like to give the primer & filler 48-72 hours to cure, outgas & shrink, before final blocksanding. A week is even better. If you're going for perfection, be prepared for a second round of scratch filler & fine blocksanding. Small imperfections cannot be seen until the part (especially a frame) is one, uniform, color...and viewed with low-angle lighting. More accurately, I'm talking about the little stuff that becomes an eye magnet only after the bike is assembled. [/QUOTE]
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How do you prep your frames?
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