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Honda CT70 Forums
General
Leaky Intake manifold??
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 183159" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>The intake flanges should have a slight taper...the area surrounding the throat sitting slightly higher than the bolt holes. They don't really warp, the metal is stable and rather brittle. First thing, you need to isolate the vacuum leak(s). It'd be rare to have a situation where a gasket won't seal the head (port) end. At the carb end, it's almost the same thing...and that big O-ring has enough "crush" to seal most any normal tweakage. Last resort would be a thin and I cannot overemphasize "thin" application of silicone RTV; that's a messy, high-risk, way to seal a stubborn leak. Don't even consider doing this until and unless you've exhausted all other options.</p><p></p><p>As for the carb rebuild kit <a href="http://dratv.com/carbrebuildkit.html" target="_blank">this one</a> is the most complete. One critical step is cleaning out the emulsion tube orifices, all of them, using a thin wire. Nothing else will suffice, no matter how good you think it looks afterward. Carb spray should be used, to clean...and verify...all of the various passages as being clean & unobstructed. The new pilot jet, included with the kit, should take care of any idle problems.</p><p></p><p>Keep in mind that it's possible to overlook something with the carb rebuild. Some can be very stubborn and it's tough for a newcomer to figure that out. Second, if the engine is down on compression, or has an ignition problem (too narrow of a point gap, for example, will make an engine run like<img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/poop.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":poop:" title="Poop :poop:" data-shortname=":poop:" />), it's not going to run right until those issues are corrected. From what you've said, the carb & intake are the logical starting points.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 183159, member: 5"] The intake flanges should have a slight taper...the area surrounding the throat sitting slightly higher than the bolt holes. They don't really warp, the metal is stable and rather brittle. First thing, you need to isolate the vacuum leak(s). It'd be rare to have a situation where a gasket won't seal the head (port) end. At the carb end, it's almost the same thing...and that big O-ring has enough "crush" to seal most any normal tweakage. Last resort would be a thin and I cannot overemphasize "thin" application of silicone RTV; that's a messy, high-risk, way to seal a stubborn leak. Don't even consider doing this until and unless you've exhausted all other options. As for the carb rebuild kit [URL='http://dratv.com/carbrebuildkit.html']this one[/URL] is the most complete. One critical step is cleaning out the emulsion tube orifices, all of them, using a thin wire. Nothing else will suffice, no matter how good you think it looks afterward. Carb spray should be used, to clean...and verify...all of the various passages as being clean & unobstructed. The new pilot jet, included with the kit, should take care of any idle problems. Keep in mind that it's possible to overlook something with the carb rebuild. Some can be very stubborn and it's tough for a newcomer to figure that out. Second, if the engine is down on compression, or has an ignition problem (too narrow of a point gap, for example, will make an engine run like:poop:), it's not going to run right until those issues are corrected. From what you've said, the carb & intake are the logical starting points. [/QUOTE]
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Leaky Intake manifold??
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