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Source for quality wheel bearings
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 33918" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>Precision ball bearings are manufactured to standards established by the Annual Bearing Engineers Committee (ABEC) of the Antifriction Bearing Manufacturers Association (AFBMA). They have been accepted by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and conform essentially with the standards set by the International Standards Organization (ISO). Doesn't tell the average person (myself included) a whole lot, but gives an idea as to what the term "ABEC" means. Basically ABEC is a grading set up to identify and set dimension tolerences in the manufacturing of bearings.</p><p></p><p>ABEC does not cover: Radial Play, Raceway Curvature, Roundness or Surface Finish, Material, Ball Complement, Number, Size or Precision Level, Lubrication, Cleanliness at Assembly or Packaging, Retainer Design. If you're looking for useful information, it doesn't tell you much. Made-in-PRC motors usually come with iso-compliance stickers attached. More puffery than guarantee. It's still buyer beware. </p><p></p><p>Dynamic load ratings can be as much as 250% of static load rating and are "stated" in multiple ways. I consider them meaningless. Those NTNs top dynamic rating is 2770 - pure b/s, IMO. FWIW, "ABEC-1" is the lowest grade (9 being the top).</p><p></p><p>All of which is confusing information overload. </p><p></p><p>You don't see many failed bearings on vintage CT70s. OEM bearings came from Koyo & NTN. Going with a known supplier covers the "buyer beware" side of things and simplifies the entire process. Even 900lbs static load + 10000rpm is massive overkill for any bike, let alone one with 10" wheels. Odds are, that for anything other than a 50mph+ road bike, most bearings available will be okay. Worst case, a wobbly wheel at 25mph allows plenty of time to stop safely. On the other hand a roadgoing bike, with more than 110cc of motorvation in the frame, potentially puts the rider in very different scenarios...like being stuck on the road (between "No" and "Where") or going down at freeway speed. Whether spending an extra 35 bucks is a large outlay is an individual call. Could turn out less costly, at the bottom line, than two sets of cheapies after the first one goes away after 620 miles.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 33918, member: 5"] Precision ball bearings are manufactured to standards established by the Annual Bearing Engineers Committee (ABEC) of the Antifriction Bearing Manufacturers Association (AFBMA). They have been accepted by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and conform essentially with the standards set by the International Standards Organization (ISO). Doesn't tell the average person (myself included) a whole lot, but gives an idea as to what the term "ABEC" means. Basically ABEC is a grading set up to identify and set dimension tolerences in the manufacturing of bearings. ABEC does not cover: Radial Play, Raceway Curvature, Roundness or Surface Finish, Material, Ball Complement, Number, Size or Precision Level, Lubrication, Cleanliness at Assembly or Packaging, Retainer Design. If you're looking for useful information, it doesn't tell you much. Made-in-PRC motors usually come with iso-compliance stickers attached. More puffery than guarantee. It's still buyer beware. Dynamic load ratings can be as much as 250% of static load rating and are "stated" in multiple ways. I consider them meaningless. Those NTNs top dynamic rating is 2770 - pure b/s, IMO. FWIW, "ABEC-1" is the lowest grade (9 being the top). All of which is confusing information overload. You don't see many failed bearings on vintage CT70s. OEM bearings came from Koyo & NTN. Going with a known supplier covers the "buyer beware" side of things and simplifies the entire process. Even 900lbs static load + 10000rpm is massive overkill for any bike, let alone one with 10" wheels. Odds are, that for anything other than a 50mph+ road bike, most bearings available will be okay. Worst case, a wobbly wheel at 25mph allows plenty of time to stop safely. On the other hand a roadgoing bike, with more than 110cc of motorvation in the frame, potentially puts the rider in very different scenarios...like being stuck on the road (between "No" and "Where") or going down at freeway speed. Whether spending an extra 35 bucks is a large outlay is an individual call. Could turn out less costly, at the bottom line, than two sets of cheapies after the first one goes away after 620 miles. [/QUOTE]
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