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Other Honda Mini Trails
CT90, CT110, ST70, ST90 Discussion
ST50 Shifting issue + leak
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<blockquote data-quote="Thomas H." data-source="post: 182843" data-attributes="member: 9748"><p>[USER=5]@racerx[/USER] thanks for the detailed explanation, it's appreciated.</p><p></p><p>Only manual clutch I've mastered so far is the one in my car. It takes a bit of practice yes, especially since you're engaging the clutch at the same time as you changes the gear. I am beginning to be able to shift more smoothly through the gears now, so it's definitely getting better.</p><p></p><p>What puzzled me was simply just, that I wasn't able to upshift from one gear to another, if the RPM's was really high in say 1st or 2nd gear. Then I couldn't roll off the throttle for just a second and then switch. Nothing happened, wouldn't go into gear. But as soon as the RPM's dropped (if I had pushed it quite hard in 1st or 2nd gear, perhaps too high) I would be able to switch to a higher gear instantly.</p><p>As long as I respect that, don't rev it crazy high (and one really shouldn't, i know!) it upshifts every single time perfectly.</p><p>Downshifting is perfect, the clutch engages perfectly fine when I keep the lever in either the upper or lower position, it doesn't jump when I switch from Neutral to 1st etc. So clutch adjustment is spot on (and tried various other settings as well).</p><p>I simply wasn't aware that I had to wait several seconds before being able to upshift after having released the throttle, if RPM's was high, - but I guess that's what you're also saying about coordinating engine RPM's and torque load to shift gears, and that all is perfectly fine in this regard then <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>Sorry if the explanation was a bit confusing regarding the head nuts.</p><p>They aren't aren't backing out when the engine runs. They stay put. They are however "springy" when torqued. The two head nuts on the left side of the engine "springs" around 1 mm back out (0,04 inches approx.) as soon as I removes the load by removing the torque wrench. They stay where they are supposed to stay after this, and don't move any further. Threads on the studs looks just fine, same does the head nuts, tried switching them around, same thing happened. Don't know how it's even possible, and what makes them do this - it happens so I can see it with my bare eyes, and feel it when they reaches their correct torque and I release the pressure. Only the left side.</p><p>Anyhow, perhaps it means nothing, just never seen this before.</p><p></p><p>If it keeps leaking (even though it's just a very tiny bit) I reckon I'll follow your advice and try to change the head gasket, even though a new one was used when the engine was assembled (didn't do it myself).</p><p></p><p>Regarding the idling; might be able to keep it running in 1st gear when it's at a standstill if I adjusted the idle speed, but then I would have to adjust it quite high, much higher than the idle speed that it accepts perfectly when in Neutral.</p><p>I'll try and play a bit around with the idle mixture, and see if I can do anything here.</p><p>A leaky intake valve is worth checking, thanks for the tip. I will try and take a look at that after having fiddled with the above mentioned settings. And yes, the insulator is where it should be, so that's at least something! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p><p>Once again; thanks for all the help so far.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Thomas H., post: 182843, member: 9748"] [USER=5]@racerx[/USER] thanks for the detailed explanation, it's appreciated. Only manual clutch I've mastered so far is the one in my car. It takes a bit of practice yes, especially since you're engaging the clutch at the same time as you changes the gear. I am beginning to be able to shift more smoothly through the gears now, so it's definitely getting better. What puzzled me was simply just, that I wasn't able to upshift from one gear to another, if the RPM's was really high in say 1st or 2nd gear. Then I couldn't roll off the throttle for just a second and then switch. Nothing happened, wouldn't go into gear. But as soon as the RPM's dropped (if I had pushed it quite hard in 1st or 2nd gear, perhaps too high) I would be able to switch to a higher gear instantly. As long as I respect that, don't rev it crazy high (and one really shouldn't, i know!) it upshifts every single time perfectly. Downshifting is perfect, the clutch engages perfectly fine when I keep the lever in either the upper or lower position, it doesn't jump when I switch from Neutral to 1st etc. So clutch adjustment is spot on (and tried various other settings as well). I simply wasn't aware that I had to wait several seconds before being able to upshift after having released the throttle, if RPM's was high, - but I guess that's what you're also saying about coordinating engine RPM's and torque load to shift gears, and that all is perfectly fine in this regard then :) Sorry if the explanation was a bit confusing regarding the head nuts. They aren't aren't backing out when the engine runs. They stay put. They are however "springy" when torqued. The two head nuts on the left side of the engine "springs" around 1 mm back out (0,04 inches approx.) as soon as I removes the load by removing the torque wrench. They stay where they are supposed to stay after this, and don't move any further. Threads on the studs looks just fine, same does the head nuts, tried switching them around, same thing happened. Don't know how it's even possible, and what makes them do this - it happens so I can see it with my bare eyes, and feel it when they reaches their correct torque and I release the pressure. Only the left side. Anyhow, perhaps it means nothing, just never seen this before. If it keeps leaking (even though it's just a very tiny bit) I reckon I'll follow your advice and try to change the head gasket, even though a new one was used when the engine was assembled (didn't do it myself). Regarding the idling; might be able to keep it running in 1st gear when it's at a standstill if I adjusted the idle speed, but then I would have to adjust it quite high, much higher than the idle speed that it accepts perfectly when in Neutral. I'll try and play a bit around with the idle mixture, and see if I can do anything here. A leaky intake valve is worth checking, thanks for the tip. I will try and take a look at that after having fiddled with the above mentioned settings. And yes, the insulator is where it should be, so that's at least something! ;) Once again; thanks for all the help so far. [/QUOTE]
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CT90, CT110, ST70, ST90 Discussion
ST50 Shifting issue + leak
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