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General Minitrail Talk
Modifications
Trans mounted clutch... TRX90
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 168056" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>Raising engagement speed will decrease clamping load and, with it, grip power. It's a question of how much higher rpm has to be attained before clutch grip is adequate. Sorry of that sounds kinda vague, lacking dyno data, it is vague...awaiting trial & error testing. </p><p></p><p>Whether a lightened rotating assembly and higher initial engagement (a.k.a. stall) speed is a good thing depends on whether you're racing or road riding. Shift smoothness is purely a matter of rider technique. Under competition conditions, the higher engagement rpm, reduced rotational mass and shifting technique thus required are all part of that balance equation. You will get increase clutch heating, wear debris and reduced service life; race engines don't wear out, they're run until they break. IDK that the stock clutch will live long when heated well beyond its intended heat range. On the street...whole other ballgame. A fraction of a second quicker 0-20mph time will be all but irrelevant, in the "stoplight grand prix." Reduced longevity doesn't play well if you want to get some real miles out of the bike. And, that racing shift technique can get old really fast when negotiating traffic, or going out for a long afternoon's touring. OTOH, if your usage plans are for low mileage and short rides...well...maybe a peaky & tweaky race setup is the way to go, if that's what suits your tastes...and you have the budget to absorb parts failures.</p><p></p><p>To be clear, mine is a skewed perspective...serious road use, i.e. long rides and over a number of years. IMO, the most critical engine power parameters are how well it performs up to 50-60mph and "NVH" (noise/vibration/harshness) as that has a huge impact on rider fatigue. Your priorities may be different.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 168056, member: 5"] Raising engagement speed will decrease clamping load and, with it, grip power. It's a question of how much higher rpm has to be attained before clutch grip is adequate. Sorry of that sounds kinda vague, lacking dyno data, it is vague...awaiting trial & error testing. Whether a lightened rotating assembly and higher initial engagement (a.k.a. stall) speed is a good thing depends on whether you're racing or road riding. Shift smoothness is purely a matter of rider technique. Under competition conditions, the higher engagement rpm, reduced rotational mass and shifting technique thus required are all part of that balance equation. You will get increase clutch heating, wear debris and reduced service life; race engines don't wear out, they're run until they break. IDK that the stock clutch will live long when heated well beyond its intended heat range. On the street...whole other ballgame. A fraction of a second quicker 0-20mph time will be all but irrelevant, in the "stoplight grand prix." Reduced longevity doesn't play well if you want to get some real miles out of the bike. And, that racing shift technique can get old really fast when negotiating traffic, or going out for a long afternoon's touring. OTOH, if your usage plans are for low mileage and short rides...well...maybe a peaky & tweaky race setup is the way to go, if that's what suits your tastes...and you have the budget to absorb parts failures. To be clear, mine is a skewed perspective...serious road use, i.e. long rides and over a number of years. IMO, the most critical engine power parameters are how well it performs up to 50-60mph and "NVH" (noise/vibration/harshness) as that has a huge impact on rider fatigue. Your priorities may be different. [/QUOTE]
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General Minitrail Talk
Modifications
Trans mounted clutch... TRX90
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