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General Minitrail Talk
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Wow, got myself in a pickle.
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 178129" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>Most likely, it wouldn't work. There's no need to sacrifice an Allen wrench, there are extractor tools available. The problem is twofold. Small diameter bolts just don't have enough material to work with, in many instances. The bigger issue is the fact that there is both expansion, iron oxide occupies more physical volume than iron...and...the incredible amount of friction (static and dynamic, if the fastener could be broken loose) in the threads. That's why the stud breaks in the first place. The only way a hard-rusted specimen might be broken free would be courtesy of "blue wrench persuasion"; you'd need to heat the threads to bright cherry red and have enough stud for Vise grips. It'd be a fugly mess, there's no way to isolate the heat.</p><p></p><p>Simplest fix I've found, and it was almost by accident, is to centerpunch the broken end (they usually break off flush), drill it, then run a tap through. That has almost always worked, for me. In those rare instances where it didn't, an M8 Helicoil was all it took.</p><p></p><p>As for why these get so rusty, what you suggested is possible, for sure. However, IMHO, condensation & 4 decades is the most common cause. Any zinc plating on those threads will go away, if not from normal use, then by doing its job. Once that happens, bare iron/steel rusts quickly. I've got boxes of old handlebars and most of them are surprisingly free of rust...internally. You do make a good & valid point that the design will hold water...kinda like the split rims, an unwanted check valve. Easy enough to prevent this. If you even suspect water is in there, just unscrew the knobs and let everything air dry for a day, or two. Personally, I apply a light coating of antiseize compound; grease should be nearly as effective.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 178129, member: 5"] Most likely, it wouldn't work. There's no need to sacrifice an Allen wrench, there are extractor tools available. The problem is twofold. Small diameter bolts just don't have enough material to work with, in many instances. The bigger issue is the fact that there is both expansion, iron oxide occupies more physical volume than iron...and...the incredible amount of friction (static and dynamic, if the fastener could be broken loose) in the threads. That's why the stud breaks in the first place. The only way a hard-rusted specimen might be broken free would be courtesy of "blue wrench persuasion"; you'd need to heat the threads to bright cherry red and have enough stud for Vise grips. It'd be a fugly mess, there's no way to isolate the heat. Simplest fix I've found, and it was almost by accident, is to centerpunch the broken end (they usually break off flush), drill it, then run a tap through. That has almost always worked, for me. In those rare instances where it didn't, an M8 Helicoil was all it took. As for why these get so rusty, what you suggested is possible, for sure. However, IMHO, condensation & 4 decades is the most common cause. Any zinc plating on those threads will go away, if not from normal use, then by doing its job. Once that happens, bare iron/steel rusts quickly. I've got boxes of old handlebars and most of them are surprisingly free of rust...internally. You do make a good & valid point that the design will hold water...kinda like the split rims, an unwanted check valve. Easy enough to prevent this. If you even suspect water is in there, just unscrew the knobs and let everything air dry for a day, or two. Personally, I apply a light coating of antiseize compound; grease should be nearly as effective. [/QUOTE]
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Wow, got myself in a pickle.
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