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General Minitrail Talk
Concours Section
Zinc Plating
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 186076" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>Oh yeah, the cost of plating has gone batshit crazy. Circa 2000, I had all the chromed pieces from a K1, including the diecast fork rings, triple-plated $350 for the lot...not prepped, not even cleaned. Zinc plating started out with a $25 minimum batch charge. Cadmium is another story altogether; it's quite toxic and was virtually regulated out of use in 2006. What happened to paints that used cadmium-based pigments was criminal...with orange & red taking the brunt of the price extortion.</p><p></p><p>As for the "8" markings on Honda bolt heads, there were at least 4 different versions used between 1969-94. To the strict purists, it matters. The earliest K0s got a mix of large & small "8"-marked bolts. K1-K3 used the small "8". K4 got some bolts with captive flat washers...and some parts got zinc chromate plating; the "8" markings saw subtle revisions and there was a mix of "old" and "new". The 90s era machines got yet another change...where the transition occurred has never really been documented. Trying to do a "museum-correct" restoration gets progressively tougher beginning with the K2 model; basically, unless you begin with an intact/all-original base machine, there's going to be some educated guesswork.</p><p></p><p>Yes, brand-new Honda-bagged bolts are still available. They differ substantially from their 1970s ancestors.</p><p></p><p>Fender bolts are almost always heavily rusted, as are the undersides of the fenders. There's a lot more salt and acidic chemicals where bikes are ridden than seems possible. The only way you're ever going to keep the fender bolts and fender undersides in mint condition is by keeping the bike away from all dirt and moisture. If you're actually going to ride...best to clearcoat the business side of the fenders, and use stainless steel bolts to mount them.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 186076, member: 5"] Oh yeah, the cost of plating has gone batshit crazy. Circa 2000, I had all the chromed pieces from a K1, including the diecast fork rings, triple-plated $350 for the lot...not prepped, not even cleaned. Zinc plating started out with a $25 minimum batch charge. Cadmium is another story altogether; it's quite toxic and was virtually regulated out of use in 2006. What happened to paints that used cadmium-based pigments was criminal...with orange & red taking the brunt of the price extortion. As for the "8" markings on Honda bolt heads, there were at least 4 different versions used between 1969-94. To the strict purists, it matters. The earliest K0s got a mix of large & small "8"-marked bolts. K1-K3 used the small "8". K4 got some bolts with captive flat washers...and some parts got zinc chromate plating; the "8" markings saw subtle revisions and there was a mix of "old" and "new". The 90s era machines got yet another change...where the transition occurred has never really been documented. Trying to do a "museum-correct" restoration gets progressively tougher beginning with the K2 model; basically, unless you begin with an intact/all-original base machine, there's going to be some educated guesswork. Yes, brand-new Honda-bagged bolts are still available. They differ substantially from their 1970s ancestors. Fender bolts are almost always heavily rusted, as are the undersides of the fenders. There's a lot more salt and acidic chemicals where bikes are ridden than seems possible. The only way you're ever going to keep the fender bolts and fender undersides in mint condition is by keeping the bike away from all dirt and moisture. If you're actually going to ride...best to clearcoat the business side of the fenders, and use stainless steel bolts to mount them. [/QUOTE]
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