EXPIRED NOS Honda CL70 fork legs 51410-061-000

AtLarge

AtLarge

Member
NOS Honda CL70 fork legs. New, never used. Still wrapped in 40+ year old Honda packaging. Will ship but, you pay the freight from 52402.
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25mm diameter by 530mm length (Approximately)
Fits all years:
CL70A
CL70K1A
CL70K2A
CL70K3A
Honda part number 51410-061-000
May fit other models like CT70 or SL70 so, do your own research. $300 and can Paypal. PM me through the board and I will get back to you.
 
scooter

scooter

Well-Known Member
I understand that those are Honda NOS, and have the old packing paper but I just picked up a set new to spec for under $100.
 
Robert thran

Robert thran

Well-Known Member
You could use cl70 lower legs but the cl axle is a smaller diameter so you would have drill them out..not really a big deal…the top of the cl lower leg is made for a boot so getting a k-1 chrome top on might need some trickery but k-3 up would be perfect. Cl70 on bottom of pic.note smaller axle hole ct70k-1 on top
 

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OLD CT

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
I would have bought them from Niche for a cheap spare set if they were the same but not in need at all for them right now. Thanks Robert.
 
Robert thran

Robert thran

Well-Known Member
OLD CT said:
I would have bought them from Niche for a cheap spare set if they were the same but not in need at all for them right now. Thanks Robert.
Click to expand...
Gotcha,, there close but no cigar..after thinking about it the real problem was the end hole was way bigger on the cl tube so used on ct lowers there was near zero dampening..
 

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kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
They ARE very close tho.
That bottom end just has a captured washer there. You could easily weld one on or something.
I'm wondering about the top...threaded part of the tube. How is it attached. I'm thinkin it is just pressed in..?
Why couldn't you turn it back down and out...
Then cut the remaining tube to length and press the threaded end back in...CT70 length?

I have a junk CT tube that I can take to work, cut it apart to see how it's made, and get some measurements.
 
Robert thran

Robert thran

Well-Known Member
The pic that shows bottoms together you will see the groove where the upper most clip goes in is in a different location.. not sure what that would effect?
 
scooter

scooter

Well-Known Member
OLD CT said:
Is there a chance they fit a K1 and up to 79 CT70? :unsure:
Click to expand...
Pat - remember a while back I said I was looking at getting some replacement tubes for the K1 made. Those are my raw material that I want to have reworked. That project is still on the to-do list. I just need to find the time to make the drawings and get them over to a machine shop. I probably bought 10 sets, one for my CL70 and the rest for rework. Wanted to do it in quantity to try and keep the cost down. Maybe this discussion will get that project back on track. Just went and found my stash
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scooter

scooter

Well-Known Member
kirrbby said:
They ARE very close tho.
That bottom end just has a captured washer there. You could easily weld one on or something.
I'm wondering about the top...threaded part of the tube. How is it attached. I'm thinkin it is just pressed in..?
Why couldn't you turn it back down and out...
Then cut the remaining tube to length and press the threaded end back in...CT70 length?

I have a junk CT tube that I can take to work, cut it apart to see how it's made, and get some measurements.
Click to expand...
Just another data point - prior to cutting them open. I just weighed each part and the CT tubes are heavier

CT 2lb 7.4 oz
CL 1lb 14.2 oz

CT OD 24.92 mm
CL OD 24.92 mm


CT ID (can’t get to it washer in way)
CL ID 19.15 mm

CT length 19 13/16 in
CL length 21 in (some length to play with)

Interesting that the CT tube weighs more. Possible thicker wall?

Washer at lower end of CT tube looks like it ‘s held in place via a turned over lip. Easy enough to replicate on the CL … press fit part with different ID would let you tune damping some and compensate for the difference in ID which also factors into how oil flows / damping

There are two holes in the side wall for oil flow as well and both parts have them. They may not match exactly in diameter looks like the CT70’s are two different diameters

Kirby - I was going to open up a spare as well to confirm wall thickness, but the weight difference says to me the CL had thinner wall. Relative to threaded end, the threads match as well as the seal so I wasn’t going to touch that end.

My first thought was shorten length and remachine C-ring grooves as necessary. Evaluate the oil flow path / restrictions and use a plug at the bottom with the right diameter hole to compensate for differences in ID. But there may be some other options when the springs are factored in
 
scooter

scooter

Well-Known Member
But, if that threaded end is a press fit which makes sense, a simple cut and cleanup to be able to re-use the insert would be simple.
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
scooter said:
Just another data point - prior to cutting them open. I just weighed each part and the CT tubes are heavier

CT 2lb 7.4 oz
CL 1lb 14.2 oz

CT OD 24.92 mm
CL OD 24.92 mm


CT ID (can’t get to it washer in way)
CL ID 19.15 mm

CT length 19 13/16 in
CL length 21 in (some length to play with)

Interesting that the CT tube weighs more. Possible thicker wall?

Washer at lower end of CT tube looks like it ‘s held in place via a turned over lip. Easy enough to replicate on the CL … press fit part with different ID would let you tune damping some and compensate for the difference in ID which also factors into how oil flows / damping

There are two holes in the side wall for oil flow as well and both parts have them. They may not match exactly in diameter looks like the CT70’s are two different diameters

Kirby - I was going to open up a spare as well to confirm wall thickness, but the weight difference says to me the CL had thinner wall. Relative to threaded end, the threads match as well as the seal so I wasn’t going to touch that end.

My first thought was shorten length and remachine C-ring grooves as necessary. Evaluate the oil flow path / restrictions and use a plug at the bottom with the right diameter hole to compensate for differences in ID. But there may be some other options when the springs are factored in
Click to expand...

I posted it all in the other thread.

Front Fork Pipes ( not sure if that’s the right name )

Anytime I was glad to add some info to this bad @ss forum lol. I think they are damn nice reproductions in my opinion. Also the lowers are aluminum so you could technically take the paint off and give them a brushed/clear coat finish. I’m going to try this and will post my results because my...
lilhonda.com lilhonda.com

The id of the CT70 tube is ⅝" 16.89mm
The threaded end is silver soldered in. But I'd imagine it could be removed for reuse, using a lathe.
 
Robert thran

Robert thran

Well-Known Member
It sounds to me like it would be much easier to just drill out the axle hole on the cl70 lowers if someone wanted or needed longer forks as long as it was a k-2 or up ct then go through all the work cutting, welding, silver soldering, and machining?
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Robert thran said:
It sounds to me like it would be much easier to just drill out the axle hole on the cl70 lowers if someone wanted or needed longer forks as long as it was a k-2 or up ct then go through all the work cutting, welding, silver soldering, and machining?
Click to expand...
But the inner legs would still be too long for a CT70 front end. Longer front end, and the tins and springs and all wouldn't fit, or look right, etc.
Easiest would likely be to just buy the $250 set from nevc.
 
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