CT70H clicks when rolling and engine not running.

Hello, I just picked up a ct70h and the bike has some resistance when rolling and It clicks about every couple feet. Doesn't matter if the clutch is pressed in or not. What does it sound like is happening? I thought maybe the chain was too tight, which it was, so i loosened it and it still does the resistance and clicking. The bike runs fine and doesn't seem like there is any resistance with motor running. Never seen this in any of my other bikes. But I've only had 1 other ct70 and it was a 3 speed.
Thank you for any info.

Lube the chain and check sprockets for excessive wear. Check to see if the back sprocket, itself, wobbles. There may be crap caught under the flywheel/counter sprocket cover. Check the rear wheel bearings for slop. Get the bike up on a milkcrate with the wheels off of the ground and spin the tires to help narrow down the location of the noise.

Probably a chain/sprocket issue. First thought is a binding link, or short section of links that are binding. Pull the chain guard, prop the bike up on a work stand and slowly rotate the rear wheel, looking for unwanted chain motion that corresponds with the clicking. A stuck, or three, will be easily seen. Could be time for a new chain, especially if you use the inexpensive stock-type; they don't last very many miles.

Worn sprockets could be at the heart of this. CT70 wheel sprockets aren't noted for their concentricity and cause the alternating loose section/tight section as the wheel rotates. If the noise is coming from a worn C/S sprocket, it's likely the alternating chain tension that's causing it.

Lastly, it could be misaligned sprockets. The forces applied to the chain & sprockets are very different when the bike is being pushed. Under engine power, the chain everything moves a lot faster and with more, or less, constant torque. Under those conditions, the C/S sprocket is self-aligning, the wheel sprocket is too, but to a lesser degree.

Thank you for the replies. I really appreciate the help. Tomorrow when I get some time I'll put it up on a stand and see what's happening. I just bought this bike newly restored. Looks like a new chain. I have to push more toward the sprocket issue. Probably not concentric.. or bent even.
i paid enough for the bike...
Shouldn't have any issues. I'm trying to figure out my tail light issue as well. If the key is on first red dot, front brake works fine. Rear light, when pressed bottom light goes off. Top stays same brightness. When i turn the key to second red dot the back brake doesn't do anything. A little upset, but I'll get it right...

I looked at the sprocket and it is running out. Where can I find a direct replacement? Any ideas on the light situation for rear brake?

Thanks guys, I took it apart and took off the chain. I noticed it had been I'm an accident where the chain got bound up in the cover and the side of the aluminum housing and made a big gash in it. I try to turn the sprocket and it moves freely until in 1 location and then binds up. So afraid the gear in there is messed up. Can you guys tell me what I might need before I tear into the case? I'm not gonna drive it like that...i don't want to cause other issues.
Thanks in advance!
Jim

Now the kick start won't engage. Wow! I'm gonna have to pull the engine and open it up

Sorry about all the posts there. I got it off my stand where I could rotate kick starter further. It engaged and now I started it. Seems to drive fine but one of the teeth must be missing on one of the tranny gears.
Any good mechanics out there that could split the cases and fix this for me? I do have to split them don't i?
Thanks again fellas, I appreciate your help.
Have fun riddin

A broken gear tooth is possible and could affect starter engagement. However, it would manifest as an unmistakable chunk-chunk-chunk-chunk as you ride, while in that gear.

A missing/dislocated friction spring on the kickstarer pinion gear can cause difficult/unreliable kickstarter engagement. Yes, the cases must be split to make the correction. However, before taking that step, consider that the spring is really tough steel and nearly impossible to dislodge from its installed position. I'd do a bit more testing to avoid the disappointment of discovering that the spring & gears are fine.

Try giving the kickstarter a mild slap, using your hand. If engagement is better, it may be the spring. Next, lean the bike waaay over toward the LH side and try moving the kickstart lever slowly, by hand. If the engagement problem goes away, time to split the cases.

OTOH, if nothing changes, then splitting the cases is likely premature at this time.

Thank you Racer! It happens in every gear but you can hear it well when you are rolling and pull in the clutch so engine is idling while the bike is rolling. It's like there is a bit of metal or debris stuck in a tooth in a gear that is always rotating in there. When rotating the spur by hand it his a spot where it is hard to turn, then about 1/16 of a turn and it gets past it and is free and goes 360 before hitting the resistance again..

Engagement is fine I think. When the kick starter is moved down by hand sometimes it will engage up high and sometimes in the middle and sometimes low. If it's low i push it down and the let the kick starter come to the top where it has longer engagement .

I'm just thinking something isn't right with whatever is driving that pinion and creating an issue with the kick starter. I just don't know if I need to pull apart...or if I should just ride as is. Runs real well, I just worry if it's something in the gear it may come out and work it's way into something and damage the engine.
Thanks again

Jim,worn rear sprocket dampers can be part of the problem of the chain clicking. The 4 rubbers are often overlooked and need to be changed every few years if you ride alot.

I'm willing to help. I've torn down and built a few. Might be able to tell what's wrong with my hands on it.

Thanks EZ,
I'll pull this thing off in the winter and let you have a go at it over winter if you will?
Just let me know when is a good time to drop off in the November December range. I believe I have seals for it, so I'll include those as well. I also have a z50 engine...might be able to swap some parts...it's tore open and ready to go.
Thank you all very much.

Also if you don't have time in the winter, I can take it off now as well. Just let me know what your thinking.
I can remove right cover too if you like?

Probably soon is better than later. If you need to source an H gear it might take some time.
They are simple so it easily makes them satisfying to work on.
Start with a phone # in a PM and we'll see where it goes.

Ez, I'll pm you