In that case, wait until you've inspected the lower end assembly. The most critical parts, imho, are the shift forks and crankshaft asm...the big end of the rod, in particular. Shift forks are easily replaced, while the cases are apart; if you find witness marks anywhere but the tips, replace them, along with the pins. Check the rod side clearance and radial endplay, also insert the wrist pin into the small end of the rod. If side clearance is beyond ~0.018", or/and you can feel any radial slop, or/and you can feel any play between the wrist pin and small end of the rod, you can expect rattling...IOW, the crank should be rebuilt or replaced.
A comprehensive list, in no particular order:
- tranny bearings (2)
- shift forks + pins...if needed
- oil seal set
- gasket set
- stator O-ring set (2 small, 1 large for the plate)
- C-clips (as previously mentioned)
- points, condenser & felt
- case scews
- cam chain
- cam chain tensioner cap
- cam chain idler
- cam chain roller
- spark plug
- valves + seal
- clutch discs
- clutch plates...if the existing plates are worn, burnt or heavily glazed
- clutch springs (cheap insurance)
- oil pump...if the gerotor is scored or/and the drive sprocket teeth are worn
- oil pump drive sprocket, if worn
- cam sprocket...if worn
- piston + rings...to match the cylinder you've chosen (overbored, or bore-up kit)
- 3 acorn nuts, for the head
- 1 hex nut, for head
- O-rings for rocker covers...usually included with gasket kit
- spark plug wire guide clip (if you're a perfectionist)
- carb overflow line guide (if you're a perfectionist)
- head washers...3 + copper sealing washer (these are specific for the head, thicker than standard flat washers)
- 2 copper sealing washers...one for the head cover, one for the cam cover (the originals can be reused, if you don't need brand-new for the look)
- cylinder-to-case screw & cylinder-to-head screw...if you need brand-new, shiny plating for aesthetics
- cam roller bolt...if you need the look of a freshly-plated bolt head.