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02 Rupp Scrambler Trail 70 clone - 12v or 6v? Tips on making lights work?
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 157625" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>Agreed, recycling the Rupp moniker on a CT70 knockoff went over like a fart inside a pantomine horse costume.<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" />ainkiller: Dumb move.</p><p></p><p>That said, the Honda patent didn't expire until 1998; the first clones hit the US market circa 2000-01 and it took a few years before they really took off. These badge-engineered Jincheng bikes were among the earliest and, as clones/knockoffs go, they weren't bad. The detailing was among the best I can recall. They were also among the first to vanish from the market, due to their pricing...which ran as high as $2600...about the same as the last of the 12V Honda CT70s. I bought a mountain of discontinued Rupp parts, before this forum began (mid-2005), for pennies on the dollar. That's when the knockoff/clone CT70 market got overcrowded in a hurry and the "race to the bottom began...FWTW.</p><p></p><p>This bike is based more on the last of the line, the 1990s-era AB26 model Dax, but with some details that no OEM CT70 had...like the 4-speed/manual engine, with 12v/CDI electrics.</p><p></p><p>Testing the electrical output should be your first step. I don't know the color-coding scheme used on this bike, so I have to make some educated guesses. There should be two AC leads. On most bikes (including)OEM Honda) they are white & yellow. White is half the alternator output and routed to the reg/rec unit; its output (from the reg/rec) goes to the battery(+)...i.e. it's the charging circuit. The yellow AC lead goes to the reg/rec, but is "Teed" to the HL switch.</p><p></p><p> With both AC leads disconnected from all electrical loads, you should see 30+VAC, from either lead, as the engine is revved. At idle, voltage falls-off as dramatically as it rises with rpm. The voltmeter is run from one AC output, to ground. If you see AC readings peak out at 8-10V, regardless of rpm, then you know the problem...a weak alternator. On the other hand, if you see 20-50V (as rpm increases), then it's time to look downstream for the voltage drain...most likely, alternator output isn't the issue. This could be something as simple as too much current draw...as could result from an oversized HL bulb, bad switch, broken/shorted lead, or mouse damage (they have a preternatural taste for CT0 wiring...inside the frame), or a failed reg/rec.</p><p></p><p>It's possible that the lighting circuit output is inadequate. However, since the engine fires & runs normally, that pretty well rules-out a weak flywheel magnet. (The primary ignition coil is completely separate from the lighting coil). IOW, worst case it might be a lighting coil array or/and reg/rec nit. Those are replaceable and not expensive.</p><p></p><p>Time to start the electrical detective work. Be forewarned, that can be very frustrating, especially for the inexperienced. However, the lighting & charging systems of these bikes are about as simple as they come...and so are the repairs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 157625, member: 5"] Agreed, recycling the Rupp moniker on a CT70 knockoff went over like a fart inside a pantomine horse costume.:painkiller: Dumb move. That said, the Honda patent didn't expire until 1998; the first clones hit the US market circa 2000-01 and it took a few years before they really took off. These badge-engineered Jincheng bikes were among the earliest and, as clones/knockoffs go, they weren't bad. The detailing was among the best I can recall. They were also among the first to vanish from the market, due to their pricing...which ran as high as $2600...about the same as the last of the 12V Honda CT70s. I bought a mountain of discontinued Rupp parts, before this forum began (mid-2005), for pennies on the dollar. That's when the knockoff/clone CT70 market got overcrowded in a hurry and the "race to the bottom began...FWTW. This bike is based more on the last of the line, the 1990s-era AB26 model Dax, but with some details that no OEM CT70 had...like the 4-speed/manual engine, with 12v/CDI electrics. Testing the electrical output should be your first step. I don't know the color-coding scheme used on this bike, so I have to make some educated guesses. There should be two AC leads. On most bikes (including)OEM Honda) they are white & yellow. White is half the alternator output and routed to the reg/rec unit; its output (from the reg/rec) goes to the battery(+)...i.e. it's the charging circuit. The yellow AC lead goes to the reg/rec, but is "Teed" to the HL switch. With both AC leads disconnected from all electrical loads, you should see 30+VAC, from either lead, as the engine is revved. At idle, voltage falls-off as dramatically as it rises with rpm. The voltmeter is run from one AC output, to ground. If you see AC readings peak out at 8-10V, regardless of rpm, then you know the problem...a weak alternator. On the other hand, if you see 20-50V (as rpm increases), then it's time to look downstream for the voltage drain...most likely, alternator output isn't the issue. This could be something as simple as too much current draw...as could result from an oversized HL bulb, bad switch, broken/shorted lead, or mouse damage (they have a preternatural taste for CT0 wiring...inside the frame), or a failed reg/rec. It's possible that the lighting circuit output is inadequate. However, since the engine fires & runs normally, that pretty well rules-out a weak flywheel magnet. (The primary ignition coil is completely separate from the lighting coil). IOW, worst case it might be a lighting coil array or/and reg/rec nit. Those are replaceable and not expensive. Time to start the electrical detective work. Be forewarned, that can be very frustrating, especially for the inexperienced. However, the lighting & charging systems of these bikes are about as simple as they come...and so are the repairs. [/QUOTE]
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02 Rupp Scrambler Trail 70 clone - 12v or 6v? Tips on making lights work?
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