1972 ct90 Lifan swap

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Tuuubbs

Member
Can anyone link what I need to do to get the lights working? I’m not running electric start so I don’t believe I need a battery, but I assume I need a converter, that’s what I keep hearing but nobody has said what it is or linked me to one. I’ve never messed with wires before and the guy that I had helping seems to have backed off the project.

I’m thinking about buying a Kawasaki Versys-X 300 after getting some good trailing in on this. Someone near my parents has a new trail125 and I don’t think I could justify buying pretty much the same exact bike as I currently have.
 
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-Nate

Active Member
RE LIGHTS :

Isn't there some sort of paper work that came with the new engine ? .

The alternator puts out A/C voltage and some times there's a dedicated lighting coil that runs the headlight only and the rest of the lights run off the D/C charging voltage that feeds the battery .

So BE CAUTIOUS if you decide to begin testing / checking unused wires coming from the alternator ! .

You can blow your meter easily .
 
Old Guy Too Many Bikes

Old Guy Too Many Bikes

Well-Known Member
Hooking up lights are pretty simple, but you'll need a battery, even a cheap little 3 ah SLA will work fine. You'll also need a 4 post regulator/rectifier, which are also inexpensive. This will provide 12 volts to power lights, etc. and keep your battery charged. I have had great luck with a 12 volt LED headlight. Wiring diagrams are everywhere, but I can tell you what goes where if you need to.
 
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-Nate

Active Member
Posting a correct Lifan color coded wiring diagram would be helpful .

Remember : we're trying to give useful advice to a guy who's prolly not as experienced as us .
 
T

Tuuubbs

Member
Engine didnt come with any paperwork other than the shipping tickets that were all in Chinese. Came with an ignition coil wire and a cdi with the harness to connect everything. So far I’ve only connected what it needed to run thanks to the guide of a mechanic buddy.

I’d like to get at least the headlight, tail/brake light working, and the turn signals if I’m already in the process, that’s all the electrics/hand controls this bike has. I have a new battery, but again I have no clue how to mess with wiring. Less worried about a shock and more worried about burning up wires. I’ve just been told that it wouldn’t be hard to bypass the battery with a 6v/12v converter.

I’m keeping as much of this bike original looking as possible, so I don’t want to opt for LEDs. I have a brand new headlight housing and bulb on the bike currently from when I tried to get the original motor going 5 years ago, and when I last had it running (for about 40 seconds at a time) all of the lights worked, though the turn signals were super delayed and slow.
 
Old Guy Too Many Bikes

Old Guy Too Many Bikes

Well-Known Member
Ok, you asked for it so here it is. I'd highly recommend going with a 12 volt system. You'll be money ahead in the long run. On ebay, you can buy a 4 wire 12v regulator for pit bikes for under $10 shipped. It'll be a little silver thing with fins, with 4 spade connectors coming out of it. Your motor should have a white and a yellow wire coming out of it. These are the two legs of the stator that provide AC voltage. If you hook up both of them, you'll have a full wave rectifier, if you only have one wire or only use one wire (white or yellow) you'll have a half wave rectifier. Either way will get the job done. Looking at the regulator, you'll see the 4 spade connectors. The bottom left is for the white wire. The top right is for the yellow wire. The top left goes to your battery positive terminal. (Use this to power your headlight, taillights, etc. and keeps your battery charged). The bottom right is for your battery negative terminal and ground. You'll need a battery, but it doesn't need to be much of a battery, even 12v 3ah is plenty.
 
N

-Nate

Active Member
Post #67 predicates the O.P. knows what wires go where and if it's as 6 or 12 volt alternator .

I'm sure it's a 12 volt but as he said 'I don't want to fry any wires' .

The importer or seller has to have some info on this engine, if nothing else the part number or series number, either of those should help you to Google the correct wiring diagram .

Maybe you can post a good, clear, will lit picure of the wires it has ? .
 
D

dmh

New Member
MiniBike Mike’s Garage said:
I’ve been building bikes with aftermarket engines, mostly Lifan’s, for 20 years and have never seen one with a engine mounting pattern that wasn’t standard for the 70cc or smaller Honda’s. The C200 and CT200 are the only 90cc bikes that are coming to my mind that use that same bolt pattern. Most 90cc bikes use a different pattern and the aftermarket engines are not a direct bolt in. You’ve seen a Lifan that will bolt into a CT90 without mods?
Click to expand...
Hi,
I am new at little Honda's. I acquired a 1962 trail 55 (C105T) The running gear is shot / missing. I had planned to turn it into an e-bike, but gasoline runs in my veins...
What is the odds of a Lifan of some sort mounting up? If the motor mounts line up, I can sort out the rest.
Regards,
dmh
 
MiniBike Mike’s Garage

MiniBike Mike’s Garage

Well-Known Member
dmh said:
Hi,
I am new at little Honda's. I acquired a 1962 trail 55 (C105T) The running gear is shot / missing. I had planned to turn it into an e-bike, but gasoline runs in my veins...
What is the odds of a Lifan of some sort mounting up? If the motor mounts line up, I can sort out the rest.
Regards,
dmh
Click to expand...
The C100 line (100 thru 105) do share the same engine mounting pattern as a CT70, so yes, a Lifan is a direct bolt in. 👍🏻
 
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