The 208
Active Member
Are you talking about the rotary valve on my Kawasaki? How would you know it's worn? I don't have any pics of it, or even posted any pics of it.
1974 CT 90 no start.
- Thread starter The 208
- Start date
Yes ;
IIRC the carby is attached to the right side of the engine , behind it is the rotary valve cover and rotary valve proper .
Here's a link to the parts book : https://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-mc1m-1974-usa-canada_model15529/partslist/
I suggest you save this and spend some time looking at it before taking the carby and rotary valve cover off .
It's been 50 years since I touched/rode one of these so the details are a little foggy but I remember most smaller two smoke singles used rotary valves back then and the valve proper is made of hard pressed fiber and it wears over time, just like clutch discs, chain and tires...
Get it running first and see what's what ~ pay close attention to the spark plug's business end as it's a sure bet thet crank end seals are perished and need replacing before you drive it more than around the block or it'll ruin the piston .
Feel free to create a new thread just for it and let me know where it is .
IIRC the carby is attached to the right side of the engine , behind it is the rotary valve cover and rotary valve proper .
Here's a link to the parts book : https://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-mc1m-1974-usa-canada_model15529/partslist/
I suggest you save this and spend some time looking at it before taking the carby and rotary valve cover off .
It's been 50 years since I touched/rode one of these so the details are a little foggy but I remember most smaller two smoke singles used rotary valves back then and the valve proper is made of hard pressed fiber and it wears over time, just like clutch discs, chain and tires...
Get it running first and see what's what ~ pay close attention to the spark plug's business end as it's a sure bet thet crank end seals are perished and need replacing before you drive it more than around the block or it'll ruin the piston .
Feel free to create a new thread just for it and let me know where it is .
The 208
Active Member
I had a friend of mine that knows bikes split the cases probably 8-9 years ago. I didn't feel comfortable doing it at that time, but, I've done 1/2 dozen or so bike/atv motors since then. I had him check out everything inside. All checked out. However, as I mentioned I'm going to split the cases again, just because it's been sitting for so long with the side cases off, (always indoors tho) I want to clean it out good, and also check things out for myself. Thanks for that heads up. I will check that stuff out too.
Well ;
I'd change / replace the two crank seals first then make it run and see what's what .
If it was indoors it is prolly fine inside .
of course, if you like to split cases and have nothing better to do, have at it .
I'm nursing a 1959 VW's engine along, it has a slight knock before the oil pressure gets up then it's fine and the knock cannot be replicated .
To fix it I'll prolly have to split the case, I have a spare old engine I want to take apart first to see if the crank is any good .
I'd change / replace the two crank seals first then make it run and see what's what .
If it was indoors it is prolly fine inside .
of course, if you like to split cases and have nothing better to do, have at it .
I'm nursing a 1959 VW's engine along, it has a slight knock before the oil pressure gets up then it's fine and the knock cannot be replicated .
To fix it I'll prolly have to split the case, I have a spare old engine I want to take apart first to see if the crank is any good .