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Doctor, I've got no pulse!
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 184286" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>I always pull the cylinder studs. It facilitates cleaning, as suggested. But, the not-so-obvious benefit is realized when it comes time to remove the remains of the cylinder base gasket; that's the most stubborn gasket with these engines and you really do want those surfaces clean. </p><p></p><p>Do keep in mind the clutch, or at least the clutch pack. Any stroker engine is going to make the clutch work harder. At a minimum, go for new plates, discs & HD springs. The TB clutch is also a good good choice...and all-new parts.</p><p></p><p>If you've made up your mind about the configuration of this engine build, either stop reading here or, be prepared to dismiss what follows. I'm of the "measure twice" camp, i.e. consider all the possibilities at the outset, to limit, or prevent, buyers remorse later. My ramblings can open many cans of worms...and cause migraines.</p><p></p><p>Since you're going with a new crank, two other things you might want to consider...upgrading the 12v/CDI electrics and 51vs 54mm stroke. Going with a straight 6v-style 51mm crank (TB is the only game, period) is the simplest and least bucks. 54mm will make the most torque, by far, but...you'll need longer cylinder studs, a 69mm tall cylinder and a longer timing chain. As long as you limit bore diameter to 52mm, no case mods are needed. This is probably another couple of C-notes. 12v/CDI offers some nice improvements over 6v breaker point electrics and going with a 12v style crank opens up all kinds of possibilities (beyond what is practical/possible in 6v flavor) but, again, it's additional bucks.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 184286, member: 5"] I always pull the cylinder studs. It facilitates cleaning, as suggested. But, the not-so-obvious benefit is realized when it comes time to remove the remains of the cylinder base gasket; that's the most stubborn gasket with these engines and you really do want those surfaces clean. Do keep in mind the clutch, or at least the clutch pack. Any stroker engine is going to make the clutch work harder. At a minimum, go for new plates, discs & HD springs. The TB clutch is also a good good choice...and all-new parts. If you've made up your mind about the configuration of this engine build, either stop reading here or, be prepared to dismiss what follows. I'm of the "measure twice" camp, i.e. consider all the possibilities at the outset, to limit, or prevent, buyers remorse later. My ramblings can open many cans of worms...and cause migraines. Since you're going with a new crank, two other things you might want to consider...upgrading the 12v/CDI electrics and 51vs 54mm stroke. Going with a straight 6v-style 51mm crank (TB is the only game, period) is the simplest and least bucks. 54mm will make the most torque, by far, but...you'll need longer cylinder studs, a 69mm tall cylinder and a longer timing chain. As long as you limit bore diameter to 52mm, no case mods are needed. This is probably another couple of C-notes. 12v/CDI offers some nice improvements over 6v breaker point electrics and going with a 12v style crank opens up all kinds of possibilities (beyond what is practical/possible in 6v flavor) but, again, it's additional bucks. [/QUOTE]
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Doctor, I've got no pulse!
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