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My K3 Resurrection
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<blockquote data-quote="adzrules" data-source="post: 101915" data-attributes="member: 6641"><p>Today I went through and cleaned all the connections in the new-to-this-bike wiring harness and the switches. I found all the speedo lights were burned out so went by the Honda dealer and got those along with some new fuel line. </p><p></p><p>Fished the harness back in, followed the wiring diagram (except I have no turn signals to install), and put the battery back in. Turn the key on and...nothing! <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/speechless.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":censored:" title="Speechless :censored:" data-shortname=":censored:" /> Couldn't even get the brake light to come on. Checked a few wires for continuity before I thought to reach in and check the ignition switch connection. Lo and behold, it had come loose when I was fishing the harness in. Reconnected, and there was life - sort of...</p><p></p><p>So here we come to my first <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/speechless.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":censored:" title="Speechless :censored:" data-shortname=":censored:" />-up of the project. I had the bright idea of opening up the (perfectly fine) ignition switch the other day just to clean the connections. When I got it apart, there were two springs and pins (?) that fell out and I did not see exactly how they were oriented. I went ahead and cleaned them and put them back in what I now know is the wrong way. When I turned the key, nothing happened at setting I or II, but the neutral light did come to life <em>in between</em> the stops :43:. I even got the horn adjusted to work. Apparently I had one or both pins in backwards.</p><p></p><p>So, I went and pulled out the ignition switch again and opened it up and changed around the pins. However, when I put the switch back together again, the solder joint for the ground to frame broke. I don't have any soldering experience, so was wondering how high a melting point we'd be talking to re-solder this joint? Would I melt the surrounding plastic if I tried to re-solder the ground?</p><p></p><p>Sometimes (even in other things) I just need to learn when to quit while I am ahead. :4:</p><p></p><p>At least I can say the new harness was in better shape. For the few minutes I left the battery in, there were no hot spots like with the old harness. And I even got the horn to toot as loud as the little piddly thing can go when the engine isn't running. So it was still a successful day in any case.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="adzrules, post: 101915, member: 6641"] Today I went through and cleaned all the connections in the new-to-this-bike wiring harness and the switches. I found all the speedo lights were burned out so went by the Honda dealer and got those along with some new fuel line. Fished the harness back in, followed the wiring diagram (except I have no turn signals to install), and put the battery back in. Turn the key on and...nothing! :censored: Couldn't even get the brake light to come on. Checked a few wires for continuity before I thought to reach in and check the ignition switch connection. Lo and behold, it had come loose when I was fishing the harness in. Reconnected, and there was life - sort of... So here we come to my first :censored:-up of the project. I had the bright idea of opening up the (perfectly fine) ignition switch the other day just to clean the connections. When I got it apart, there were two springs and pins (?) that fell out and I did not see exactly how they were oriented. I went ahead and cleaned them and put them back in what I now know is the wrong way. When I turned the key, nothing happened at setting I or II, but the neutral light did come to life [I]in between[/I] the stops :43:. I even got the horn adjusted to work. Apparently I had one or both pins in backwards. So, I went and pulled out the ignition switch again and opened it up and changed around the pins. However, when I put the switch back together again, the solder joint for the ground to frame broke. I don't have any soldering experience, so was wondering how high a melting point we'd be talking to re-solder this joint? Would I melt the surrounding plastic if I tried to re-solder the ground? Sometimes (even in other things) I just need to learn when to quit while I am ahead. :4: At least I can say the new harness was in better shape. For the few minutes I left the battery in, there were no hot spots like with the old harness. And I even got the horn to toot as loud as the little piddly thing can go when the engine isn't running. So it was still a successful day in any case. [/QUOTE]
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