shed some light syn. vs non syn break in

[kjax74k3]

"The theory that synthetic oils should not be used during break in is the same as the theory that your engine will break in better if you use synthetic oil but add a dinner candle to your four quarts of engine oil. Frankly, I find this theory, um, questionable. Oh, hell, laughable. Corvettes and Porsches come from the factory with Mobil-1 in their engines. Remember, these engineers have designed world-champion engines for F1, Indy, Le Mans 24 hours, etc.
There's a lot of mythology surrounding break-in oil. It's simply not the case that synthetic oils are more "slippery" than conventional oils. Also, break-in of a modern engine is completely different than break-in of an engine made before about 1980. Modern engines, by comparison to something made in the '60s, are pretty much already broken in from the factory due to the fact that today we hold much tighter machining tolerances. The exception, of course, would be the Ural, a motorcycle made on a production line unmodified since about 1935.
I recommend you change your break-in oil at 75 to 100 miles, 100 to 150 kilometers. Your engine does shed a fair amount of metal particles in the first 20-50 miles, and I really can't understand why you would want this stuff floating around your bearings for the first 600 miles, 1000 kilometers.
I put Shell Rotella "synthetic" (87% group III) oil in my DL650 at 75 miles. It burns no oil, gets great gas mileage, and runs great. I recommend you switch to a good synthetic at your first oil change." excerpt from All About Motor Oil

i find this to be true. i broke my bike in with castrol syntech and it was better than the other i broke in with non synthetic. that and he also recomends commercial grade oil as a norm oil as long as its not "energy conserving" due to the friction chemicals. 15-w40 i use caterpillar oil i get for free from my brother (1 gallon every 2 months i can get free.:1: ) just read this article you may like or if your old and miserable and unless you already "know it" its wrong.:26::27:

 

[a_smerek]

I think what is more important at the end of the day, is to break the engine in by running it hard. I have read a lot of research papers and the evidence is overwhelming. Keeping up and down revs constantly changing while pushing the engine hard seems to be the key.

As for the oil, I wouldn't put synthetic in for break in because you should change it 2-3 times initially and that is just a waste of money.

High end cars come from the factory with synthetic, some low end vehicles do also. My friends 09 Ford ranger came with factory synthetic oil in it right from the factory

The best place IMO to break in an engine is the track : ) That is also the best place to ride : )

Reading if you are interested Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[kjax74k3]

ive read that article and i must say it does make sense. as for the ol you are right it does get expensive lol. hence my change to CAT oil for free(free is for me. it still 15w-40 and wet clutch safe) lol. to each his own really. however in an amsoil vs normal oil with the same quality. id go normal as it still is not an energy efficient oil (none of the crap thats bad for the wet clutch) and it still doesnt cost wayyyy too much.the standards jaso and other motorcycle standards sometimes need not apply (amsoil is independently tested it "meets or exceeds" it is not actually jaso... nudge nudge) now im just getting into the oil talk all over again. basically the whole hype need be moto oil is a load force fed by all the major companies as racerx said before its ingredients. those oils that cost 11 a quart usually you will find one under the same mix that is only 5 a quart due (the liscense for mixes sometimes is used over by various companies so basically alot of campanies are really just the same oil i a diff. bottle) you must excuse my jumping around i usually start with one topic and end with like 20 million others i have a bit much on my mind.