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General Minitrail Talk
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Splitting the cases! Advice.
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<blockquote data-quote="69ST" data-source="post: 176937" data-attributes="member: 5"><p>Maybe post one showing the clutch, with the oil spinner cover/throwout bearing flange removed.</p><p></p><p>What I've seen, so far, is about as expected...more dirt/sludge than you want, but not "OMG" horrible or anything like that. </p><p></p><p>The one piece I'd replace is that shift fork with galling on the contact pads. I can guarantee that it's still well within wear limits. However, $45 buys a minty-new, OEM replacement...that still has full thickness of that all-important heat-treated "layer". IMHO, that's cheap insurance at the minimum and a the kind of extra little grace note that separates a good rebuild from a perfectionist one. R&R-ing a shift fork, from this level of dis-assembly, is an easy 2-minute job.</p><p></p><p>Next up, check rod clearance, at the big end (you want less than 0.018", ideally 0.014" or less), along with radial runout. Insert the wrist pin in the small end. It should fit snugly and have no play that can be felt by hand. Based on what I've seen so far, I expect the crank is still in very good condition and the inspection will turn out to have been for peace-of-mind.</p><p></p><p>Looks to me like you're well on your way to an excellent result.<img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/thumbsup.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt="(y)" title="Thumbsup (y)" data-shortname="(y)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="69ST, post: 176937, member: 5"] Maybe post one showing the clutch, with the oil spinner cover/throwout bearing flange removed. What I've seen, so far, is about as expected...more dirt/sludge than you want, but not "OMG" horrible or anything like that. The one piece I'd replace is that shift fork with galling on the contact pads. I can guarantee that it's still well within wear limits. However, $45 buys a minty-new, OEM replacement...that still has full thickness of that all-important heat-treated "layer". IMHO, that's cheap insurance at the minimum and a the kind of extra little grace note that separates a good rebuild from a perfectionist one. R&R-ing a shift fork, from this level of dis-assembly, is an easy 2-minute job. Next up, check rod clearance, at the big end (you want less than 0.018", ideally 0.014" or less), along with radial runout. Insert the wrist pin in the small end. It should fit snugly and have no play that can be felt by hand. Based on what I've seen so far, I expect the crank is still in very good condition and the inspection will turn out to have been for peace-of-mind. Looks to me like you're well on your way to an excellent result.(y) [/QUOTE]
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Splitting the cases! Advice.
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