Newby Screwed up !
- Thread starter Beretta
- Start date
mark from florida
Active Member
lookin at that I I would think new crank? hope the weld job works for you.
I would be a bit nervous when I needed to loosen it too.
Gary
Well-Known Member
Nut does not hold it on anyway- it's the taper that does the work. Think about it a bit,if it did why would you need a puller to remove a flywheel. Will have to see what kind of weld you end up with.If that looks good then it might be a good idea to get some valve grinding paste and lap the flywheel to the shaft as well. At this point you have nothing to lose but a new crank is the best option. Good luck
A very valid point. However, it's the hex nut driving a tight enough interference fit to lock the crank to the flywheel bore. Theaded fasteners can easily generate huge clamping forces...and for every action there is an equal & opposite reaction. In this case, it's the amount of force "pushing back" against the hex nut and threaded end of the crankshaft...with, potentially, one additional vector. If the hex nut does not seat evenly against the face of the flywheel hub, the end of the crank will be deflected, under a huge psi loading, and that may break the threaded end; it could be sufficient to snap the end off of an intact crankshaft.
The #1 reason why used crankshafts end up as scrap metal is damage to the flywheel end. The number of otherwise rebuildable cranks I've seen with damage to the clutch side...I could count on one hand. IOW, this is a difficult repair...
Gary
Well-Known Member
Oh I agree just throwing it out there,he has absolutely nothing to loose. Many don't realize why the taper is there,key does not hold it either it's there to locate the points cam. I thought I remember someone here along time ago drilling and tapping the crank end for a bolt.....
Aren't 3 speed cranks not available?
Aren't 3 speed cranks not available?
Same here. I have seem a few cranks that had been drilled and tapped. The 3 speed crank is NLA but do show up from time to time. CMSNL has one for for a tidy sum of ~$301 + shipping.
It's a matter of the price tag. 6v/3-speed cranks are not rare, Z50 & CT70 cranks made prior to 1982 are all the same. That left us with a huge pool of used specimens and most of them can be rebuilt, if the rod is worn. But new 6v/3-speedcrank assemblies are NOS-only. That has tilted the playing field. A shop will typically charge around a buck seventy five to rebuild a crank. Add-in the price of a rebuild kit plus postage and the cost gap narrows considerably. If you have to source a rebuildable crank, in addition to that...well...it's easy to see why the market will bear the current price of NOS.
Crankshaft Complete and Perfect!
Centering the Broken pc took some time-Splot weld-Spin eng and tap -spot weld- same process several times until were happy that it was as true as we could get it---then welded 360 degrees- Chased the Treads- Used a little thicker washer- Torqued to 25 ft lbs.
Centering the Broken pc took some time-Splot weld-Spin eng and tap -spot weld- same process several times until were happy that it was as true as we could get it---then welded 360 degrees- Chased the Treads- Used a little thicker washer- Torqued to 25 ft lbs.
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airblazer
Active Member
https://m.facebook.com/spallchassisandperformance/
Might as well put his friend’s shop name and contact info here in case someone else needs to use those skills...
Might as well put his friend’s shop name and contact info here in case someone else needs to use those skills...
Wow. This is impressive! By looking at the weld and not seeing any splatter, did he TIG weld it?
