Trail 70, true barn find. Needs lots of work, ?'s from a new guy

caspian

Member
My first mini bike. I wasn't fortunate enough to have one when I was young. I now have two boys, and want them to experience it. As you can tell, this needs A LOT of work. But, I don't want to spend a fortune getting it back up and running. Here's what I'm planning on doing at a minimum.

88CC kit
new brakes (front and rear)
new clutch
return it to factory style handle bars
return it to factory style throttle
add front light
add fenders
put an on/off toggle switch (don't need a key)
new seat

My goal is to get it up and running strong and safe, but not worried about things like horn, tail light, and non essentials because this will be strickly used at my buddies farm. Keeping the cost down is key.

Any suggestions on anything to look for or do?

First time owner,so all info appreciated.

Thanks
Chris

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Dezdan

Well-Known Member
Welcome! And nice find! A nice CTO HK0! Many a member here would love to have that bike! You have some work to do, but it sounds like you have a solid plan!

I'd start sourcing parts, eBay will be your friend/foe! After that check out DrATV (Beatrice Cycle), CHP, NEVC, and others I am forgetting.

Start with the basics, engine turnover? Looks like you're planning some top-end work, but what condition is the bottom-end in? Looks like the wire harness has been removed or altered enough, you might want to plan picking a new one up it you want a headlight. The list can go on and on.... Start one piece at a time!
 
Can't tell how badly rusted those wheels are, but if they're not too bad, you can simply clean 'em up and paint them, the same way I did mine when I first scored my bike. You can always buy new wheels later AFTER you've taken care of other things, aye? Small tip, but helpful for saving money out the gate, LOL. Might wanna check the wheel bearings too, those don't cost much to replace and good bearings make a BIG DIFFERENCE... take it from an old school vertical skateboarder, LOL. One day, I'll figure out how to put German racing bearings in my monkeybike, till then I'm stuck with these new bearings from T-Bolt, CHP, Fast 50s or Faster Minis... can't remember where I bought 'em, I suffer from CRS, 10-4??? You can Google all those vendors or distributors for more info and pricing. The guys (and gals) at this site are pretty helpful, they'll see you through your entire restoration, but you can also check out "the competition"---those crazy mini-riding fools at miniriders.com in "The Land of Oz" (LOL). Those boyz are SE-WIOUS about racing their minis, I kid you not. But these hands at lilhonda.com know their stuff, they've really helped me with the FrankenBike, my little offroad thrasher. You can see shots of the bike in my Z50 thread in this forum. One question: why so set upon factory-style bars? Why not let the kids decide which bars they like best? Alright, that's actually two questions, but I've found the wider lower bars on my FrankenBike to be excellent, they really provide a lot of positive control in the dirt, especially at speed on fairly rough roads. I offset the lower bar height by extending the fork legs and putting stiffer springs in there, so the FrankenBike handles like a true dirt bike, except of course for those pesky 8" wheels, LOL. I don't know how old your kids are, maybe the bars won't be an issue for 'em if they're really young. Oh, yeah, one last thing: kudos to ya for being a good dad!!! With the exception of small craft sailing and perhaps technical rock climbing, I haven't found anything that beats monkeybiking for pure freedom, 10-4??? And sadly enough, that kind of freedom is hard to find in this Brave New World, so let your kids enjoy every minute of it... I came to monkeybiking late in life, but I've ridden dirt bikes all my life, and this little FrankenBike o' mine makes me feel like a kid again every time I ride it, LOL.

P.S. Skydiving & close proximity wingsuit flight offer heller freedom, no doubt, but that whole scene comes at a much steeper price. If I could afford the gear, citation, etc., I'd be riding my FrankenBike off "The Visor" on Half Dome and pulling two cords: one for me, one for the monkeybike, LOL. Maybe the Troll Wall in Norway, with some wingsuit action thrown in for good measure... hafta put a JATO unit on the FrankenBike so it won't get messed up on the rocks below, 10-4??? Send that thing so far out into space it'll make Evel Knievel look like a Girl Scout in Summer Camp, LOL... and I'm a big fan of ol' Evel too, don't misunderstand that joking line. Good ol' Evel, he sure was a hand when it came to jumping bikes, kind of like the ORIGINAL CYCLE JUMPER, yeah??? His son Robbie is cool too, but Evel was THE MAN when it came to jumping all sorts of rigs, buses, etc., back in the day. I can STILL remember watching him on TV... was it ABC's Wide World Of Sports that televised some of his jumps??? Dang, that pesky CRS is rearing its ugly head, but I'm willing to swear on a stack of old SkateBoarder Magazines that Evel was featured on ABC's Wide World Of Sports on more than one occasion.
 
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69ST

Well-Known Member
If you are capable of going through the motor, then by all means split the cases and inspect the internals. There's a good chance that one, or both, of the shift forks are worn; if so, now's the time to replace them. Check the crank. If the rod has more than about 0.018" side clearance, at the big end, or ANY radial slop that you can feel, source an inexpensive replacement from dratv. You'll also want to replace the seals, plug, points & condenser and clean out any dirt/sludge, in addition to the items on your list. This will give you a solid, mechanically healthy, engine. Odds are high that it's time for a valve job, too; this can be farmed-out. If you also teach your offspring some basic maintenance, your grandkids may have the opportunity to enjoy this machine. It's not expensive to go the few extra steps and do this right. Your list is pretty good, to begin with.

Next up, rebuild the carb. Dratv offers an excellent rebuild kit and it has the correct #65 main jet for your HK0. If the carb is toast, or you cannot/don't want to rebuild it, hondatrailbikes makes a very good reproduction carburetor. Northeast Vintage Cycle (NEVC/hondanuts.com) usually stocks them. Lastly, make sure that your airbox assembly is clean, the carb boot seals properly and that the foam element is clean & in good condition.

Check the tires for dry rot. If you can see cracks, when you pinch the tread, replace them and the tubes. Even cheap aftermarket tires are far better (safer) than crunchy, dry-rotted, originals. New brake shoes are a good idea, cheap too, and a critical safety item. I wouldn't trust 45-year-old original brake shoes, they've been known to de-laminate. When/if the friction linings separate from the shoes, the wheel can lock-up. $25 should replace both front & rear sets, cheap for a critical safety item.

You should be able to source a used keyswitch from feebay. K0s are the most commonly seen and not expensive. They'fe also plug & play..literally. A new, OEM, key can be sourced from hondakeys.co, $10 a pop; all you need is the 4-digit alphanumeric code from the keyswitch, it's on the face. If you want a toggle switch, go for a [URL="http://dratv.com/kswat7.html"]handlebar-mounted unit[/URL]

Repop seats can be had for less a buck-fifty, from the usual vendors and a few on feebay. You want the K0 style, also listed as having "6V" configuration...which just means it works with your seat latch. The later "12v" style (`91-`94) use a different latching setup, with a key lock.
 

caspian

Member
Great info, guys, keep it coming. I am holding off making an order for parts until i get a grasp of everything i'll need. Great info on the brake pads. never thought of that. they miked out o.k., but i will replace them as cheap insurance from danger.

Good info on the carb kit. i'm all about getting my hands dirty. I taught myself to TIG weld stainless and aluminum from youtube, so a carb doesn't scare me.

I welded up a stand so it is at a comfortable height. (see below).

I'm going to start a new thread on shock removal. I can't figure out the front shock. I'm guessing i need a special spanner type wrench to fit in the cap hole. i couldn't find any info on searches, so starting a new thread may be best to help out future people who search.

Keep the info/advice coming.

Regards,
Chris

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Wingnut likes 'em, LOL, well enough to chew their heads off prior to eating the rest of their carcasses... :30:

To the OP: you definitely have some work ahead of you, but you sound like you can handle it. Anybody willing to weld a stand to put the bike at a "comfortable height" is good to go... not afraid to tackle the harder stuff, 10-4??? And I say this as a RIDER more than a MECHANIC, AYE??? Should be a cool resto thread, can't wait to see more... nothing like bringing one of these monkeybikes back to life, it's gotta be like Dr. Frankenstein throwing the switch when it's all said and done, LOL. :43:
 
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Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
That's the real McCoy alright; the coveted 70' Hk0 4-speed model. Good find. :6::10:

I understand about wanting to keep costs down but you should have a keyed ignition and here's one for only $11.oo http://dratv.com/unkeysw.html
probably could,t get a automotive switch for that low of price...Won't fit the stock hole-slot but you could mount it somewhere or make a jig to get it to fit the stock location. That site has a lot of useful parts so check it out.

Have I been drinkin too much single malt or is there a dent with a crack in the frame under the seat? Hope not:13:
 
Single malt, damn... all I have is rum to top off however many beers I drink while watching this "ELYSIUM" flick, as well as the Oregon-Colorado game, LOL. Ya know, this "ELYSIUM" flick needs some MONKEYBIKES to make the HolyWad Action more credible, LOL. :43:
 

caspian

Member
You are correct, there is a Crack under the rear seat. I'm going to weld it up and grind it smooth. I'm not a pro welder, so it won't be pretty, but it will prevent future damage.
I wasn't planning on a full out restore, but there's really no way to fix the weld without a paint job.

Thanks
Chris
 

ctbale

Member
how old are your boys? if they are younger staying with stockish cylinder and piston might be something to think about. I have a few ct70s but just completed my first one with a dratv 88cc kit. the compression to kick it over is quite a bit greater then stock. here was my barn find I got july 5th. I have $500 in parts it it, but I had a pipe, carb, brake shoes and I cobbed the seat back together with lots of pop rivets sheet metal and a $25 seat cover.

http://lilhonda.com/webboard/showthread.php?t=18914
 

Pelican1750

Member
Chris, what you're about to realize is, the more hours you spend on an HKO and see it begin to take shape and sparkle, the more you fall in love with it. After an order or two you will become hypnotized by all the marvelous doo-dads on the parts pages that make 1970 suddenly seem like last month. Muttering to yourself...ah what's another 50 bucks...repeat, repeat, repeat, until you're on a first name basis with the fine folks at DRATV and CHP. The Bug bites hard. These little bikes are a fun build. When wrangled back together correctly, tough as nails and off the chart for cool factor. 88 kit ?..naa not necessary. New OEM ignition switch ?...yes definitely. Enjoy !
Dan

P.S. You have two boys and if my math is correct, that means you're gonna need two more minitrails. Your very first words were "My first minibike, I didn't have one as a kid"
Well ya do now and it's never too late to have a great childhood. That clutch tho can be tricky for kids especially on trails so I would advise a pair of KO's for the boys.

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caspian

Member
yes, i have 2 boys, 9 and 12. My buddy has a Yamaha TW (Fat tire). that may be a fun one way to go for an option.

Yes, i can see these being addictive. I already did a $300 order to dratv, and that's just the beginning.
 

Z50nut

Active Member
Congrats on two great finds Chris, the HKO and this site. You will find the members incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. I, too acquired an HKO about a year ago, with the help of the members here, including one that made two house calls, was able to get it running. As previously mentioned, what started as a rebuild has become a much grander restoration. Looks like you need fenders, I may have one in my shed for you, gratis. I was just on ebay, someone just listed a new seat for 79.00 and two new trailwings for 40.00 each, from a restoration that was abandoned. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

caspian

Member
I'd like to take you up on the fender. I just looked at my purchases on ebay and dravt, and fenders weren't on it. I will PM you about it. Thanks for your generosity.
 

Z50nut

Active Member
Sure thing...it's for a rider, but should get the job done. I was just looking over your bike. If you go with stock bars, you'll need a stock triple tree as well.
 
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