New Guy Honda CT70 Build

Jacob Scroggs

Jacob Scroggs

Active Member
I also installed these two horns. The bike kinda looks like Mickey Mouse
465265A6-8768-4DF4-9963-D54C2CD97B5D.jpeg
 
Robert thran

Robert thran

Well-Known Member
Wow maybe those digital speedos don’t hang down as low as the stock ones do? I’ve never used one of those .. the whole bike looks great though!!!!
 
Jacob Scroggs

Jacob Scroggs

Active Member
Alright guys... I’ve had about 150 miles of testing and I love this bike. It’s so cool. It’s a little more “darty” than I expected. I haven’t ridden a bike in probably 15 years. But there is a little getting used to this short wheel base. So far my to speed was 65 and it still had room for more, but I don’t think I’d wanna go any faster.

But one problem I’m having...my neck bearings. Has anyone ever used this front end I’m running. I’m running new stock style bearings on the original bearing races. But I can’t get it adjusted right. When I set the top neck nut to the bearings, I can only get it hand tight before it starts seizing up. So I set it a little loose, then tight the nut on top of the triple clamp. But when I do that, there is some slack in the neck joint.

My question...I’ve seen the all balls tapered bearings advertised, has anyone had experience with these and should I order a set? Or is there something I can do to my stock style bearings to make it better??? Anyone please chime in on this.
 
red69

red69

Well-Known Member
I have All Balls steering neck bearings on two CT70's and one S90. No issues whatsoever. Actually, they don't have a designated set for the S90, but the steering necks are the same for CT70 and S90's The OEM ball bearings and races carry the same number for both bikes in the parts book.
 
Jacob Scroggs

Jacob Scroggs

Active Member
red69 said:
I have All Balls steering neck bearings on two CT70's and one S90. No issues whatsoever. Actually, they don't have a designated set for the S90, but the steering necks are the same for CT70 and S90's The OEM ball bearings and races carry the same number for both bikes in the parts book.
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Hey, thanks man. We’re your stock bearing races hard to remove???
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Definitely go for the tapered bearings.
The old races will knock out pretty easy...just go slow and work all around the perimeter so they come out straight.
 
red69

red69

Well-Known Member
If I remember correctly, once I got one race out, I think I used a deep socket and extension with a hammer to drive out the remaining race.
 
Jacob Scroggs

Jacob Scroggs

Active Member
red69 said:
If I remember correctly, once I got one race out, I think I used a deep socket and extension with a hammer to drive out the remaining race.
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Ok, so start with a drift punch on the first race then an appropriate sized socket on the second. Will the stock race stops be right for the new bearing races???
 
OLD CT

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
The new bearings will come with new races and will work. They will look like the wheel bearings/races that would be used on the front end of 70's vintage car/truck wheel bearings in rotors. The upper race will sit a ''smidge'' proud, if I recall correct. Others here feel free to chime in on that...
 
G

Gplracer

Member
Great job on your bike Jacob. I hope I am getting close. I have all the parts. I am just waiting on the motor from China. Right now it has gotten to Alaska so it is getting closer.
 
red69

red69

Well-Known Member
Jacob, you probably know this already, but place the races in the freezer for a couple of hours to get them to contract which will allow them to go in easier. When you install them, a distinctly solid sound will be heard when they finally seat against the stop in the neck. I've used both a bearing installation tool and a deep socket/extension to install them on my bikes. I also heated the neck with a heat gun, but if you are installing them in a painted frame, skip that step.
 
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