1972 CT70 Orange runner
- Thread starter Gumpit
- Start date
Enginedoctor
Well-Known Member
you already got the bug… no going back now!
darrel gunderson
Active Member
Should be a 6 volt battery I think? Try CHP and use a maintenance free one.
White
New Member
:39: I'm not sure Darrel, it could be that the Gumpitt bike is converted to 12V. Non original engine even the switches look like the 12v type. I know there is a 12v battery that fits in to the old 6v battery basket.... but don't ask me were to get it or what brand it is....
Looks like a cool little bike...:23:
Gumpit
Member
Some pics to get started. Too cold to ride today but I did put the kickstand on and fixed the gas leak from the gas filter. I put in a battery but I don't think anything is hooked up to the engine harness. It looks like they just hooked up the lights. So I will have to go through that. I am waiting for the seller to send me the key that he forgot to give me. But it seems like it was only used to shut it off. Does the key affect the lights in any way?
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Enginedoctor
Well-Known Member
on the bikes with original wiring and key switch, the first key position (from the off position) allows the bike to run, but does not turn on the lights, then the second position keeps the bike running with the lights on. on the original setup bikes, the lights run off the stator directly (more or less) and the 'running light' in the taillight runs off 6 volts. so on a bike like my 71, you need the key in the second position to actuate the lights. all your switches and stuff don't look oem, and the engine looks like a replacement (right?) so the electrical system would probably be the first thing to be changed from original. you might have to chase it down to see where it's going. until the engine runs, you probably won't get the headlight to light. on mine, the running light lights up bright when the key is in the on/lights position, but no headlight until the engine is actually running, and it only gets bright running down the road.
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Gumpit
Member
The orange one is definitely a hodgepodge of parts. But it's just a beater. The wiring is new but the key switch only has an off and on I think. I will try putting in one with a 3 position. The engine I wax told was definitely NOT original. It is stamped 72cc but is a 4 speed semi automatic. Is that odd?
72cc 4-speed/semi-automatics are common, amongst Chinese clones. And, the "72CM[SUP]3[/SUP]" clinches the ID...Hondas were marked "72cc".
Looks to me like someone built a rough rolling chassis into a restomod, using exclusively inexpensive Chinese parts. That explains a lot.
Also, a little off-topc but potentially very useful to the later-model devotees, if that's a Chinese keyswitch, it may be a viable solution for those lacking the unobtainium OEM unit + keys.
Back on-topic, if the PO replaced both the wire harness & keyswitch as a unit, sourcing an OEM, 3-position, keyswitch could be a nightmare for you. It can be done, I adapted a 7-wire NOS switch to work with a different Honda wire harness having only 4 input leads. It works but, the lights are all controlled from the bar-mounted switch unit and the middle "run" position is useless.
Adam-NLV
Well-Known Member
According to your VIN it's a 1972 but it looks like the P-O was trying to make it into a 1979 Bright Yellow CT70, it even has the 79 decal.
Here's my 79 that has the original paint, it looks similar to that 72 paint scheme and decal. As i been working on this, I removed it's original decal because it was losing adhesion...
View attachment 19175
Here's my 79 that has the original paint, it looks similar to that 72 paint scheme and decal. As i been working on this, I removed it's original decal because it was losing adhesion...
View attachment 19175