1975 st90
- Thread starter SanDogDewey
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SanDogDewey
Member
hrc200x
Active Member
The part number for the right handlebar kill switch assembly says it also came on a CL125S1. Does this look like it has the correct kill switch assembly as yours? Doesn't look in the greatest of shape, but maybe better than what you have. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-1971-1...ash=item3f69985144:g:xEYAAOSwgZ1XwLXh&vxp=mtr Also, looking at parts diagrams it appears that later year trail 90's had a red kill switch, but the front brake lever perch was built into the bottom half of it, ST90's are a separate lever mount, might be possible to make something like that work and remove your switch and lever mount until the correct could be found. Still can't believe no one is reproducing just the red top plastic piece as a kit with spring, ball, and clip.
One more http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-73-74...ash=item360b410f8a:g:O0EAAOSwZJBYBR-b&vxp=mtr
One more http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-73-74...ash=item360b410f8a:g:O0EAAOSwZJBYBR-b&vxp=mtr
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b52bombardier1
Well-Known Member
The 75-78 Honda CT90 bikes might work but you might have to splice in some wire to make the wires reach the head light bucket. The CT90 handlebars are shorter than ST90 bars. The trouble is that a lot of CT90 people also look for that assembly. I looked for years for one on my 76 CT90 to repair its kill switch assembly and wound up installing a used ST90 assembly . . . my wires in this case were extra long.
I have an ST90 identical to yours - Topaz Orange, 1975. Functional speedometer cables and intact rear turn signal mounts are also kinda' rare. You need a healthy six volt battery for ease of starting here. A battery is also needed to keep from blowing lamps all over the bike because a healthy battery is the voltage regulator. Most people also replace the old rectifier with a Radio Shack or Digi-key part which can get you nearly another volt of DC power and limit AC from damaging your DC-loving battery.
Rick
I have an ST90 identical to yours - Topaz Orange, 1975. Functional speedometer cables and intact rear turn signal mounts are also kinda' rare. You need a healthy six volt battery for ease of starting here. A battery is also needed to keep from blowing lamps all over the bike because a healthy battery is the voltage regulator. Most people also replace the old rectifier with a Radio Shack or Digi-key part which can get you nearly another volt of DC power and limit AC from damaging your DC-loving battery.
Rick
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SanDogDewey
Member
Has anyone tried this MotoBatt or any other maintenance free battery.
http://www.motobattbatteries.com/motobatt-mbt6n4.html
i used a higher capacity maintenance free battery from CHP on my CT70 and it works great. The horn doesn't sound like a dead duck.
Looks like I'll also need a headlight bucket. I'll know more once I get all the tape off. I've seen a couple of options online for these.
Beatrice Cycle has tires that are a bit smaller but should work well.
http://www.motobattbatteries.com/motobatt-mbt6n4.html
i used a higher capacity maintenance free battery from CHP on my CT70 and it works great. The horn doesn't sound like a dead duck.
Looks like I'll also need a headlight bucket. I'll know more once I get all the tape off. I've seen a couple of options online for these.
Beatrice Cycle has tires that are a bit smaller but should work well.
b52bombardier1
Well-Known Member
Whether that battery is a long term solution for you will depend a lot on your riding style. Please note - that battery is a four amp - hour capacity battery. All stock ST90 batteries are six amp hour in capacity, same as the CT90.
If you ride around at something less than full throttle, the smaller battery might work. Remember - the battery is the voltage regulator here. If you are like me and ride around at full throttle for long periods of time, that smaller battery will likely overheat, bulge out the sides of the plastic case and die a quick death. That expensive OEM Stanley head light filament will soon fry.
I run six AH, flooded lead acid batteries in all five of my six volt bikes. Yes, that means that I have to watch my electrolyte levels and refill the battery with demineralized water periodically. But such is life with these bikes and my style of riding.
My newest battery is about a year old and the oldest is about three years old, still doing OK and not frying lamps.
The Motorcycle Superstore also carries tires for an ST90. I'm running Bridgestone Trail Wings with no complaints.
Rick
If you ride around at something less than full throttle, the smaller battery might work. Remember - the battery is the voltage regulator here. If you are like me and ride around at full throttle for long periods of time, that smaller battery will likely overheat, bulge out the sides of the plastic case and die a quick death. That expensive OEM Stanley head light filament will soon fry.
I run six AH, flooded lead acid batteries in all five of my six volt bikes. Yes, that means that I have to watch my electrolyte levels and refill the battery with demineralized water periodically. But such is life with these bikes and my style of riding.
My newest battery is about a year old and the oldest is about three years old, still doing OK and not frying lamps.
The Motorcycle Superstore also carries tires for an ST90. I'm running Bridgestone Trail Wings with no complaints.
Rick
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SanDogDewey
Member
Got the bike cleaned up a bit today. Turned out all that tape on the headlight was covering one crack. I'll epoxy it up and it should look great. I ordered a kill switch for a 1975 Honda CB 750 which has the same switches on the top side (kill switch and lights on-off). If I can use the whole top assembly, I'll cannibalize the switches. I also need to weld up the rear turn signal attach points as they have taken a beating over the years. I've got a seat cover, tires and tubes, and new decals on order. Will see if I can rejuvenate the battery down at the shop tomorrow.
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b52bombardier1
Well-Known Member
I have had good luck with repairing the head light bucket plastic with some fiberglass body repair cloth and resin on the inside. Clean up the plastic surface on the inside and tape the crack closed before applying the resin soaked cloth. Nobody will know it is repaired. My efforts here were with the side covers off my 72 CB500 Four but the plastic material and techniques are the same.
I have thought about welding up a turn signal mount before but never actually tried it. Will you weld, braze or maybe TIG the repair? I have an old tool kit with shredded turn signal mounts that could possibly be repaired and I'm interested in your thoughts here. Replacing the missing metal seems like the hardest part of this job but its nothing some grinding and test fitting couldn't overcome.
Rick
I have thought about welding up a turn signal mount before but never actually tried it. Will you weld, braze or maybe TIG the repair? I have an old tool kit with shredded turn signal mounts that could possibly be repaired and I'm interested in your thoughts here. Replacing the missing metal seems like the hardest part of this job but its nothing some grinding and test fitting couldn't overcome.
Rick
SanDogDewey
Member
I'm going to weld it up with my wire feed. One side is in pretty good shape so I can use that as a pattern. There's not a whole lot of flex in the mount so I can see how they got beat up so bad.
b52bombardier1
Well-Known Member
Getting the mounts back in good condition will be very nice. There are some taco shaped clips that reinforce the mounting of the turn signal - not sure if you have those. But they are easy to fabricate in sheet metal.
The most nagging rear turn signal problem I've had with my two ST90 bikes is poor grounding. I ran a supplemental wire to each one and the problem was solved. It's not a stock look but I have dependable turn signals.
Rick
The most nagging rear turn signal problem I've had with my two ST90 bikes is poor grounding. I ran a supplemental wire to each one and the problem was solved. It's not a stock look but I have dependable turn signals.
Rick
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SanDogDewey
Member
I got both sides of the toolbox welded up. I don't have pictures of the completed project. I'll take some tomorrow after the paint dries.
One side was split, so I just welded it. The other side was missing a piece, so I made a filler piece out of 1/8" steel. I only have one of the nutplates and one rubber grommet. I'll have to see about making something up to mount the signals.
Also got the muffler, chainguard, brake pedal and footrest blasted and painted.
One side was split, so I just welded it. The other side was missing a piece, so I made a filler piece out of 1/8" steel. I only have one of the nutplates and one rubber grommet. I'll have to see about making something up to mount the signals.
Also got the muffler, chainguard, brake pedal and footrest blasted and painted.
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b52bombardier1
Well-Known Member
That is an absolutely awesome job!! You would make a few ST90 owners happy with that kind of repair.
Rick
Rick
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SanDogDewey
Member
The brackets turned out ok. Once I get the clips and rubber grommets on, you'll never see the repair. I'll have to hunt down another grommet as one was missing. I made a new clip with a nut plate. Got the kill switch fixed. I ordered the cheapest RH switch I could find for a 1975 Honda 750...they're plentiful. I cannibalized the switch and soldered it into the old housing.
Waiting for presents to arrive this week! Tires, tubes, seat cover, battery, decals
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SanDogDewey
Member
Pulled the carb and found it surprisingly clean, especially for a bike full of gas that hadn't run for 6 years. Pulled the tank, which had some surface rust. Put some nuts and bolts in the tank along with a quart or so gas. Shook that around for 15 minutes or so and it cleaned up really nice.
My battery showed up today! $24 shipped from Rocky Mountain ATV with acid. Arrived in 2 days. Installed the battery, kicked it twice and she purrs like a kitten. Put a tube in the rear tire so I could take it for a little ride. Tranny shifts nice and tight. Still need some new tires as these are very cracked. Tires and seat cover should be here this weekend.
Still have to sort out the low beam, taillight and front brake switch.
My battery showed up today! $24 shipped from Rocky Mountain ATV with acid. Arrived in 2 days. Installed the battery, kicked it twice and she purrs like a kitten. Put a tube in the rear tire so I could take it for a little ride. Tranny shifts nice and tight. Still need some new tires as these are very cracked. Tires and seat cover should be here this weekend.
Still have to sort out the low beam, taillight and front brake switch.
b52bombardier1
Well-Known Member
You must be living right for it to start on the second kick. My first ST90 had a locked up motor due to a badly damaged gear in the transmission. My second ST90 had much less than 100 PSI in compression . . . no easy kick starts here.
There's more to these bike's than a good battery and a clean carb but you probably already know that. I'd look at the valve clearances and the spark advancer next.
Rick
There's more to these bike's than a good battery and a clean carb but you probably already know that. I'd look at the valve clearances and the spark advancer next.
Rick
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SanDogDewey
Member
Yep, I'll check the valves, drop in a set of points and a plug. Still hunting for a shop manual for it. I think this bike was well loved. The original owner lived to be 88 and bequeathed it to a Marine friend. He put it in his garage for 6 years, never touching it. That's when I found it.
b52bombardier1
Well-Known Member
Hmmmm???? You don't say? An electronic PDF version of the shop manual? For free even.
Hmmmmmmm . . . =
Rick
Hmmmmmmm . . . =
Rick
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SanDogDewey
Member
Hmmmm???? You don't say? An electronic PDF version of the shop manual? For free even.
Hmmmmmmm . . . =
Rick
I did find a PDF of a 1973 owner's manual which gives all the general maintenance procedures. I also found out it shares turn signal mounts with the 1975 CB360, which has a lot of eBay parts available. I snagged a couple rubber grommets and nut plates with ground wires attached. Are any OEM parts still available from Honda? Most of my go to websites don't give part breakdowns for the ST. Who carries a good set of points (30200-107-014)for the ST? Does the 30250-052-000 condenser fit the ST90. I remember seeing it when I had the tank out, but can't remember if it had a flat or round connector.
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SanDogDewey
Member
Did you save both bikes? From what I understand, gaskets for the case are pretty scarce. A lot of these bikes were just ridden to failure and parked.
Cold compression check on this one was over 120!