73 K2 Restoration Help

I'm restoring a 1973 K2 (Orange) and need to buy a new set of handle bars as the bolts broke off in the originals and I can't get them out. Can someone recommend a reputable brand or dealer to buy from? Has anyone done businees with "dr.CT70-411help" on Ebay? has some negative feedback but his handlebars look like what I'm looking for.

I also need the headlight bucket mounting brackets that slide over the top of the front suspension. The 73's have the different suspension with the rubber spring boots on the exterior and the headlight mounting sleeves seem hard to find. Same question as above..Does anyone know where to purchase?

Thanks
 

hornetgod

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't go with the Dr.CT70-411 versions. I have heard they are poorly constructed and the fit is not right.

CHP has a nice set of reproduction KO/HK0/K1/HK1 handlebars that can be modified to fit a K2.

As far as the fork ears go, no reproductions are currently being made. You might get lucky on Ebay, but expect to spend BIG BUCKS. They are a hard thing to find as they were only used on the K2.

Below is are a couple pictures of my Grandfather's original K2 that I inherited. http://lilhonda.com/webboard/f14/grandpas-trail-70-rides-again-12785/
 
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ez50

Well-Known Member
I've got the Dr.CT70 bars on a bike and they work well. They're the only ones I've found with the mirror mounts. The set I got fit well and serve their purpose.
The CHP bars don't have mirror mounts and aren't as wide as the Dr.CT70 bars but the finish is A+ premium. The 411 bars look like dipped electrician bent conduit. You can see the weld seam on the tubing and the punched out pieces and holes need a little attention. Do some filing to smooth sharp edges and they work just fine. I'm satisfied for the price.
 

tarkus4

New Member
I had the same problem with the broken bolts in the handlebars. Here is what I did. If you look on the bar you will see a weld spot that holds in the part that has the threads. I drilled the weld out slightly bigger than the diameter of the weld or you could grind it out. You can then use a punch to tap out the piece. I then made new ones on a lathe then drilled and tapped them, pushed them back in and re-welded it back in. If you can't do it yourself a machine shop should be able to cheaper then new bars.
 
Thanks guys, all good advice. In Hornetgod's reply he stated that the handlebars from CHP would need to be modified to fit a K2, what is the difference between the K1 & K2 handlebars?

I've noticed that the only other CT-70 that has the Run/Stop switch on the right handlebar is the one in Hornetgod's grandpa's. How did the rest of you eliminate the need to have the Run/Stop switch.

As you can tell this is my first stab at restoring a 70-trail, so I appreciate all your advice.
 

hornetgod

Well-Known Member
Both the K2 and K3 versions used the identical Kills/Dimmer Switch. That's the reason the CHP and perhaps the DR.CT70 bars with need modified. The mounting hole for the kill switch needs drilled/opened up. Once done, I'm not sure the clocking of the switch would be stock looking. Below are a couple K3's.
 
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kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, all good advice. In Hornetgod's reply he stated that the handlebars from CHP would need to be modified to fit a K2, what is the difference between the K1 & K2 handlebars?

I've noticed that the only other CT-70 that has the Run/Stop switch on the right handlebar is the one in Hornetgod's grandpa's. How did the rest of you eliminate the need to have the Run/Stop switch.

As you can tell this is my first stab at restoring a 70-trail, so I appreciate all your advice.
I'm planning to list this switch on Ebay tomorrow. Let me know before then if you think you might want it. $110 OBO on ebay $85 on lilhonda. 100_4541.jpg100_4540.jpg100_4539.jpg100_4538.jpg100_4537.jpg100_4536.jpg100_4535.jpg100_4534.jpg
 

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kirrbby

Well-Known Member
I also have a NOS switch that I plan to sell off sometime down the road. LOL. if you have one that is good or repairable, it's probably worth the effort.
 

bullitt

Member
I agree with tarkus4,I drilled out my z50 bars,weled the hole up and retapped the hole,took about an hour and saved the original bars.Even if you replace them,Iwouldnt get rid of the original ones.
 
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