1970 CT70 for a friend, the bike hadn't ran in years due to carburetor issues. He purchased a new SL 90 carburetor off eBay because of his 1970s SL90 Webco manifold, once the carburetor was on it ran great and we were all very thrilled. I had some other tasks to perform on the bike like changing shifter shaft seal, general cleaning Etc. In my Infinite Wisdom I thought I would just run a fingernail file over the points light slightly as the bike had not run in many years, well for some reason messing with the points ever so lightly has caused us now to get no spark. I'm assuming I did something wrong with the points even though I can't imagine what, I've used a fingernail file for points on many other bikes including my Yamaha XS650 and XT500.
Another no spark thread, what did I do, Newbie
- Thread starter Norton
- Start date
Yes on the carb, because the manifold was designed for the SL, with the diagonal bolt holes. This was the carb.
Thank you.
Thank you.
HONDA SL90 S90 CL90 REPLACEMENT CARBURETOR CARB | eBay
New reproduction Carburetor - Has correct angled mounting flange. Bolt on and go! Fits all models Honda SL90's, S90's & CL90's.
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What points, I see talk about Hitachi or Mitsubishi? Should I also do condensor?
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
I would try just cleaning and adjusting your points first.
Do you know if they have EVER been replaced?
Motor rebuilt? Or still untouched?
How many miles on that bike?? Looks pretty nice! Gotta be low miles, or...restored..?
Clean the points to be sure there is no oil, grease, dirt or grit in there.
Then set the points timing by the book, or just set the gap to .016 inches.
See if your spark returns.
Filing the points could have changed the gap, just enough to get you beyond spark.
Have you changed ANYTHING else on the engine or wiring, other that what you've mentioned??
If you DO need/want to change the points, that bike is a K0...typical 3speed semi-auto, with Hitachi stator/flywheel/points.
You will need a flywheel puller to get to the points.
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Welcome to lilhonda!
Do you know if they have EVER been replaced?
Motor rebuilt? Or still untouched?
How many miles on that bike?? Looks pretty nice! Gotta be low miles, or...restored..?
Clean the points to be sure there is no oil, grease, dirt or grit in there.
Then set the points timing by the book, or just set the gap to .016 inches.
See if your spark returns.
Filing the points could have changed the gap, just enough to get you beyond spark.
Have you changed ANYTHING else on the engine or wiring, other that what you've mentioned??
If you DO need/want to change the points, that bike is a K0...typical 3speed semi-auto, with Hitachi stator/flywheel/points.
You will need a flywheel puller to get to the points.
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Last edited:
Thanks....
Yes, lo miles, approximately 1200 or so, same owner for the last 40 years, it was pumped up to 800 something CC's back in the day.
Will get a flywheel puller, and points and condenser just in case.
Timing by the book, any online service manual available?
Best source for the P & C?
Thanks again.
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
Yes on the carb, because the manifold was designed for the SL, with the diagonal bolt holes. This was the carb.
Thank you.
HONDA SL90 S90 CL90 REPLACEMENT CARBURETOR CARB | eBay
New reproduction Carburetor - Has correct angled mounting flange. Bolt on and go! Fits all models Honda SL90's, S90's & CL90's.www.ebay.com
That webco intake is sweet! I have one, with a original...I think cm90 carb, on a hardtail Z50.
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Gary
Well-Known Member
For the rest of you- Your not supposed to use points files. Todays points are plated not solid like in the past. Not saying you can't but figure on replacing them when you do. It is actually better to use contact cleaner and a piece of notebook paper- not the shiny magazine type paper that has clay in it. Clean with contact cleaner use air to dry then cut a sliver of paper and place in between the contacts. Using a screwdriver to manually open the points open them enough so that the paper drags through. If the contacts are that bad you feel you need to file them replace them instead.
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
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Update to this situation.
My buddy returned with the motorcycle, and I put a new set of points in and it fired right up and ran like a bat out of hell. Looking back I should have tried to start it before I put the points in just to make sure that the points being replaced was actually the problem, and here's why. So after I put in the new points, we rode around the neighborhood and it ran well and my buddy loaded up in his truck and took it back home. He gets home and it doesn't even fire, now this is a guy that has been on motorcycles for 50 years and is a very strong rider so I do not think this is user error. So knowing that it has this intermittent problem, which may or may not have been present prior to new points or old points, what else is causing the intermittent spark? Should I replace condenser, is the coil going bad, is the spark plug wire going bad, or the ignition switch going bad? I have a new condenser so I will try that first although if I take off the old condenser and test it and find it to be working I can conclude that it was not the problem, correct? If so then what is the next likely culprit, plug wire, coil, ignition switch?
Thank you.
My buddy returned with the motorcycle, and I put a new set of points in and it fired right up and ran like a bat out of hell. Looking back I should have tried to start it before I put the points in just to make sure that the points being replaced was actually the problem, and here's why. So after I put in the new points, we rode around the neighborhood and it ran well and my buddy loaded up in his truck and took it back home. He gets home and it doesn't even fire, now this is a guy that has been on motorcycles for 50 years and is a very strong rider so I do not think this is user error. So knowing that it has this intermittent problem, which may or may not have been present prior to new points or old points, what else is causing the intermittent spark? Should I replace condenser, is the coil going bad, is the spark plug wire going bad, or the ignition switch going bad? I have a new condenser so I will try that first although if I take off the old condenser and test it and find it to be working I can conclude that it was not the problem, correct? If so then what is the next likely culprit, plug wire, coil, ignition switch?
Thank you.
Ok, here is what I know and think I know.
The bike is very nice, no mice or chewed wires under the seat.
Are these bikes positive ground? The reason I ask is I thought that's what I read somewhere, and going from positive to frame with a tester produced zero results? But turned the key to on, and the results changed?
Don't know what this means below, is there a video or step by step with pics showing this procedure?
"Check the black jumper link at the battery connection. you can also hook the black with white tracer wire from the coil directly to the black wire from the stator to eliminate a potential problem with the main harness?
I saw a video on YT, where a guy tested to see that the points were working properly, by tapping into the junction block under the seat, black wire, and then grounding against motor, is that similar to above?
here is that video link.
How does one test a condenser?
Is it as simple as this?
https://www.hunker.com/12226169/how-to-test-a-condenser-in-a-small-engine
Thank you.
The bike is very nice, no mice or chewed wires under the seat.
Are these bikes positive ground? The reason I ask is I thought that's what I read somewhere, and going from positive to frame with a tester produced zero results? But turned the key to on, and the results changed?
Don't know what this means below, is there a video or step by step with pics showing this procedure?
"Check the black jumper link at the battery connection. you can also hook the black with white tracer wire from the coil directly to the black wire from the stator to eliminate a potential problem with the main harness?
I saw a video on YT, where a guy tested to see that the points were working properly, by tapping into the junction block under the seat, black wire, and then grounding against motor, is that similar to above?
here is that video link.
How does one test a condenser?
Is it as simple as this?
https://www.hunker.com/12226169/how-to-test-a-condenser-in-a-small-engine
Thank you.