auto clutch adjustment tips

chris_s

Member
so I'm trying to adjust my clutch a bit to get the kick starter slipping less. I just want to confirm that I've got the procedure right.

loosen the lock nut

turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it stops. loosen adjusting screw 1/8-1/4 turn counter clockwise.

tighten lock nut

does that seem about right?
 

chris_s

Member
so I did the steps I outlined above, but now it seems like the clutch does not disengage. The 1-2 shift is very difficult, and when I hold the gear lever up or down, it is still in gear.

anyone have a brilliant solution?

thx!
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Turn the adjusting screw in just until you feel resistance. (This is where all of the slack is removed and is the same as holding the clutch lever at the point where resistance can be felt with a manual clutch.) Then back off 1/8 turn and retest the bike. From your description, there's too much slack in the clutch linkage. Keep in mind that basic guidelines are just that... guidelines. Most of the time they'll get you close, but there's still some tweaking required to get things dialed-in. In the case of clutch adjustment, wear can be a factor too. In this instance, I'd keep tightening-up the adjustment in tiny increments & restesting until the clutch action is correct. Should that prove impossible, it may be time to rebuild the clutch (which is no big deal either).
 

hondaman

Active Member
No brilliant solution. All you can do is keep playing with the adjustment either in or out on the adjusting screw. If that has no effect than other problems exist. Always do the adjustment with the engine off. If that does not solve the problem than it could be problems with the shift linkage itself which means tearing the engine apart. Its no big deal to those who have done it before or have experience with these engines. To others it is a big deal.
 
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chris_s

Member
so if I understand correctly, I don't want the screw all the way in, or all the way out, but somewhere in the middle, based on where I feel resistance while turning it in?

thx!
 

chris_s

Member
ok I turned the adjuster screw all the way out (counter clock) and then adjusted it in until I felt some resistance
Shifts like a charm now.
Starting still sucks, but I'm willing to leave well enough alone at this point
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Sounds like worn clutch discs. Aside from removing the clutch cover/oil spinner screws, it's not a very difficult job. The cases don't need to be split and you won't part with much cash, even if replacing the clutch plates & friction discs. For a reasonably accomplished shadetree mechanic it's an afternoon's work. For those familiar with a CT70 clutch, about an hour, mainly spent cleaning things like the inside of the oil spinner.
 

rickharp

New Member
clutch adjustment question

3 speed, 1970, ct70, auto. i too am having trouble with the clutch adjustment nut. when i was much younger, i recall 2nd gear not engaging until i let up on the shift lever. the one i have now, shifts into 2nd right when i depress the pedal. (from 1st to 2nd, and i think the same for 3rd).

does this sound like a simple tweak to the adjustment or something more complicated. thanks
 

chris_s

Member
3 speed, 1970, ct70, auto. i too am having trouble with the clutch adjustment nut. when i was much younger, i recall 2nd gear not engaging until i let up on the shift lever. the one i have now, shifts into 2nd right when i depress the pedal. (from 1st to 2nd, and i think the same for 3rd).

does this sound like a simple tweak to the adjustment or something more complicated. thanks

yeah the clutch is out of adjustment. It's a matter of going either in or out with the adjuster screw. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw. I'm no expert, so try tweaking it either way. When mine was doing the same thing, I turned it out in order to get the results I wanted
 

elqaupo

New Member
hey thanx i tried exactly what you said and it works alot better and i adjusted it once without tweaking kick starter worked alot better and it didnt try to pop a wheely when i put it in gear thanx again man
 

Miniac

Member
3 speed, 1970, ct70, auto. i too am having trouble with the clutch adjustment nut. when i was much younger, i recall 2nd gear not engaging until i let up on the shift lever. the one i have now, shifts into 2nd right when i depress the pedal. (from 1st to 2nd, and i think the same for 3rd).

does this sound like a simple tweak to the adjustment or something more complicated. thanks

Actually, the way it worked when you were young is how it's supposed to work. The shifter disengages the clutch and shifts gears. When up shifting or down shifting the clutch is disengaged until the shifter is released and allowed to return to it's normal position.

Way back when, all the little kids that wanted to do burnouts would stomp it into first and hold the shifter down, rev the engine, and then slip their toe off the shift lever. It worked good for a while, then the nice mechanics got to replace clutches and gears and the shocked daddys ripped junior a new one when they got the bill. Aaaah, those were the days.

Sounds like your clutch isn't properly disengaging, . . . most likely an adjustment problem. Reread racerx's post and give it another try.

-kevin
 
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Miniac

Member
You two do realize these original posts are almost two years old right? :13:


:poster_oops:UUuuuuuhhh, . . . my bad.

C'mon, it's all I can do to read the words and not just look at the pictures. Dates, . . . we don' need no stinkin' dates! :eek:
 

mattandtress

New Member
Clutch Problems. Can you help ???

Inconsistent clutch operation. Sometimes from neutral to first will idle fine, next time from neutral to first it will lurch and die.
 

Hiramhaus

Member
So how much resistance is resistance (some problems stand the test of time). My adjustment screw "stops" then I tried to back it out 1/8 turn - still not too good - I thought about trying again with it "touching" to see if it is better or worse. The head of the screw is nearly below the surface of the lock nut. Does that mean that my clutch is worn? I do have 5k miles. The way it sits now, I switched into 2nd and did a hell of a wheelie out in traffic, had it been on purpose I would have been impressed.


I found my answers and put them here ---->right here<----


- the two year old instructions in the first post on this thread are opposite. My research suggests: first loosen lock nut - turn the screw counter clockwise until you feel it touch or "resistance" then turn it back 1/8 to 1/4 turn clockwise then tighten the nut. Worked like a dream for me.
 
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