flyingdiver41
Member
What break-in oil do you recommend (Viscosity & Type)? How long do you recommend running the motor on break-in oil before switching over to regular weight? And do most CT'rs run SAE30 weight?
Break-in Oil
- Thread starter flyingdiver41
- Start date
I just broke in my 4 speed a couple months ago that was rebuilt by old ct. I used valvoline motorcycle 4 stroke 20w- 50. Ran it for about 5 min and changed it. Then ran it for another 10 min and change it again. Did it again after about a month. In the spring I will do it again and check/clean the screen. Don't use regular car oil. You need motorcycle oil! Dave
flyingdiver41
Member
Thanks Dave. I just read Motoman's article on engine break-in and oil change recommendations. It's a read.
flyingdiver41
Member
In the link below B52bombardier says that you should check the valve clearances, cam chain tension, etc, after a specific time. My question is, is it critical that I have this done? I did not rebuild the motor myself and would be concerned about trying to perform this myself. In addition, I prefer not to remove the motor and ship to the engine re-builder for additional adjustments unless you guys say its absolutely necessary.
http://lilhonda.com/webboard/f6/fresh-motor-break-proceedure-break-oil-recommendations-15308/
http://lilhonda.com/webboard/f6/fresh-motor-break-proceedure-break-oil-recommendations-15308/
OLD CT
Well-Known Member
Depending on the model you may not ever have to worry about the cam chain tension. If it is a KO it's not adjustable. If it is quiet no need to bother with it. The same goes for the valves. I'm sure you could check the valves if you want to without adjusting them. This will make you more confident to maintain it. You would check/adjust the valves cold. The flywheel marks are then set to tdc on the flywheel to the notch in the case at 12 o clock,pull the adjustment covers on the head and use a feeler gauge that can be purchased for under 5 bucks at Harbor Freight.
cjpayne
Well-Known Member
Same here Dave. I used the Honda GN4 stuff for the first two changes, then switched to the Valvoline Motorcycle oil. Good stuff, IMO. Made my tranny shift just a tad smoother too. I highly recommend cleaning the screen/spinner filter at no further than the first 300miles. The way that OLD CT builds engines, I'm sure that first 300 miles adds up quickly and only takes a few hours.LOL
Straight 30W JASO-spec oil isn't easy to find. 20W50 is as close as you're going to get, circa 2014. 10W40 will probably be fine for most, especially with stock engines. However, I choose oil viscosity based upon peak operating temperature...when the oil will be at its thinnest. All else the same, frictional heating...and peak oil temps...will never be higher than during the break-in period.
As OLD CT mentioned, cam chain tension doesn't change very much, unless there's a major problem and that's rare. Checking valve lash, especially if the valves are on the noisy side, isn't a bad idea. It's kinda like checking one's resting pulse, easy to to and a good way of getting an early handle on an engine's mechanical health. If it changes more than a little and/or more than a couple of times, the cause needs to be tracked down.
Most of the abrasive particulates in used oil are clutch friction material. With a rebuild, there's a lot more than normal...plus metallic bits from the rings, piston, and freshly-honed cylinder walls. New engines add hardened steel, from the tranny, to the mix. I base oil change intervals on the amount of "stardust" seen in the oil, when it's drained. I like to see two oil changes within the first 50 miles, with the first after the initial 20-30 minutes. What you did was probably even better...there's no such thing as oil that's "too clean"; the best oil is clean oil. It's the abrasive grit that does most of the damage.
My break-in oil change schedule: 20-30 minutes, 50 miles, 100 miles, 200 miles, 300 miles, 400 miles, 500 miles, 700 miles, 900 miles, 1100 miles. That's a nice bit of overkill for very little money (less than $60)...still the cheapest insurance going for a new, or rebuilt, engine.
You should see a dramatic reduction in stardust with each successive oil change, up to about the 500-mile mark. IMO, the oil spinner should be cleaned at the 300-mile mark, then every 1000 miles, or yearly, whichever comes first. Also, the crankcase should be drained (and the oil spinner cleaned) just prior to putting a bike into winter storage. This is an easy way to avoid sludge buildup, over time. If you choose not to refill the crankcase with fresh oil, tape a note to bike "ADD OIL", to help avoid unwanted drama in the springtime.
As OLD CT mentioned, cam chain tension doesn't change very much, unless there's a major problem and that's rare. Checking valve lash, especially if the valves are on the noisy side, isn't a bad idea. It's kinda like checking one's resting pulse, easy to to and a good way of getting an early handle on an engine's mechanical health. If it changes more than a little and/or more than a couple of times, the cause needs to be tracked down.
Most of the abrasive particulates in used oil are clutch friction material. With a rebuild, there's a lot more than normal...plus metallic bits from the rings, piston, and freshly-honed cylinder walls. New engines add hardened steel, from the tranny, to the mix. I base oil change intervals on the amount of "stardust" seen in the oil, when it's drained. I like to see two oil changes within the first 50 miles, with the first after the initial 20-30 minutes. What you did was probably even better...there's no such thing as oil that's "too clean"; the best oil is clean oil. It's the abrasive grit that does most of the damage.
My break-in oil change schedule: 20-30 minutes, 50 miles, 100 miles, 200 miles, 300 miles, 400 miles, 500 miles, 700 miles, 900 miles, 1100 miles. That's a nice bit of overkill for very little money (less than $60)...still the cheapest insurance going for a new, or rebuilt, engine.
You should see a dramatic reduction in stardust with each successive oil change, up to about the 500-mile mark. IMO, the oil spinner should be cleaned at the 300-mile mark, then every 1000 miles, or yearly, whichever comes first. Also, the crankcase should be drained (and the oil spinner cleaned) just prior to putting a bike into winter storage. This is an easy way to avoid sludge buildup, over time. If you choose not to refill the crankcase with fresh oil, tape a note to bike "ADD OIL", to help avoid unwanted drama in the springtime.
Some new High Zink content Oils specifically designed for Motorcycle engine have come on the market recently
Maxima Maxum 4 - Premium Break-In 4-Cycle Oil - 10w30 - 1L
Part No: W-78-9974
Maxima Premium Break-In Oil is specifially designed for breaking in engines with flat tappet camshafts, roller elements or where elevated levels of antiwear additives are needed. Advanced technology provies optimum ring seal. Break-In Oil is formulated with high levels of Zinc and Phosphorous in a highly refined, pure petroleum base oil. Complex 2X Zinc structure protects for an extended temperature range. By combing two differeing zinc compounds, Maxima premium Break-In Oil activates at lower temperatures and offers more protection at elevated Temperatures.
For use in the break-in of engines including Motorcycle, ATV, Side-By-Side, PWC and more.
Safe for use in Wet Clutch Systems
Excellent general purpose dyno oil.
Compatible with petroleum, semi-synthetic, and full synthetic motor oils
Delivers long-term benefits to new or rebuilt engines.
Unsurpassed protection during engine break-in
Use Maxima Premium Break-In Oil for unsurpassed protection against critical engine component wear. Safe for use in wet clutch systems. Ideal for use in race engines, OEM rebuilds, and tight clearance applications.
Fully formulated, Break-In oil is perfectly balanced and requires no other additives. Dyno tests show more efficiency in the break-in phase when using maxima Premium Break-In Oil.
Maxima Maxum 4 - Premium Break-In 4-Cycle Oil - 10w30 - 1L
Part No: W-78-9974
Maxima Premium Break-In Oil is specifially designed for breaking in engines with flat tappet camshafts, roller elements or where elevated levels of antiwear additives are needed. Advanced technology provies optimum ring seal. Break-In Oil is formulated with high levels of Zinc and Phosphorous in a highly refined, pure petroleum base oil. Complex 2X Zinc structure protects for an extended temperature range. By combing two differeing zinc compounds, Maxima premium Break-In Oil activates at lower temperatures and offers more protection at elevated Temperatures.
For use in the break-in of engines including Motorcycle, ATV, Side-By-Side, PWC and more.
Safe for use in Wet Clutch Systems
Excellent general purpose dyno oil.
Compatible with petroleum, semi-synthetic, and full synthetic motor oils
Delivers long-term benefits to new or rebuilt engines.
Unsurpassed protection during engine break-in
Use Maxima Premium Break-In Oil for unsurpassed protection against critical engine component wear. Safe for use in wet clutch systems. Ideal for use in race engines, OEM rebuilds, and tight clearance applications.
Fully formulated, Break-In oil is perfectly balanced and requires no other additives. Dyno tests show more efficiency in the break-in phase when using maxima Premium Break-In Oil.