Dennis McDonaugh
Member
Looking at cables for the CT70, I see some are labeled long and others short. How do I know what I need?
Cables - Long vs Short
- Thread starter Dennis McDonaugh
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Dennis McDonaugh
Member
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Dennis McDonaugh
Member
Does that mean I need a short cable?
hrc200x
Active Member
Looks like you'd need the short cable, they say flap cap, but probably mean flat cap. check link: https://chpmotorsports.com/shop/con...ko-k1-short-version-for-flap-cap-carbs-875mm/
Dratv has the best page for finding cables.
Here's the specific K1 throttle cable but in black. The OEM was gray.
Here's the specific K1 throttle cable but in black. The OEM was gray.
Dennis McDonaugh
Member
Thanks for sorting that out for me.
hrc200x
Active Member
While you have the throttle apart to do a cable it might be a good idea to buy part number 45K from this link. Is the complete throttle rebuild kit http://www.hondaminitrail.com/ct70.html the little piece that threads onto the cable on the grip end needs to go on a specific way.
Dennis McDonaugh
Member
Thanks for that link. I was going to order those from Honda, but this looks like an easy way to get everything. How is the quality compared to Honda? My throttle is very stiff and the end is chewed off the grip.
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Gary
Well-Known Member
The ones linked on CHP site are listed as Honda parts. I have not bought anything for a long time from my dealer but since I had the part numbers he gave me 10 or 20% off cant remember which- but even with tax got them as cheap,sometimes even faster and didnt have to pay shipping.
One caveat...and this has nothing to do with any vendor out there...the old "throttle pipe" should probably be cleaned, lubed & reused. The OER Honda-bagged version has had Q/C issues for the past two decades. That used to mean burrs left on the internal helix and those took forever to wear down; think in terms of a years-long break-in process. But, in the last few years, I've gotten a half-dozen of these with the helix incorrectly positioned...resulting in the slide going right off the end, leaving the throttle stuck wide-open.
Everything else in the kit is fine and having minty-new parts is always nice.
I would suggest evaluating the original parts. Clean everything thoroughly, using mineral spirits. Lube the bar, slide, and inside of the throttle pipe (a.k.a. the actual twist grip) using lightweight lithium grease, and see if the binding doesn't vanish. Odds are high that it will. If nothing is damaged, or actually worn out, you may only need a new cable.
FYI, the vinyl grips themselves often cause added friction at both ends. Careful positioning, a minuscule amount of surgery and grease should correct this.
Everything else in the kit is fine and having minty-new parts is always nice.
I would suggest evaluating the original parts. Clean everything thoroughly, using mineral spirits. Lube the bar, slide, and inside of the throttle pipe (a.k.a. the actual twist grip) using lightweight lithium grease, and see if the binding doesn't vanish. Odds are high that it will. If nothing is damaged, or actually worn out, you may only need a new cable.
FYI, the vinyl grips themselves often cause added friction at both ends. Careful positioning, a minuscule amount of surgery and grease should correct this.
Dennis McDonaugh
Member
So you got me to thinking about the throttle so I took it apart even though it might set me back another week or so to get to see if it runs. The throttle tube was sticky with old, congealed grease and the screw that holds in the throttle stop was jammed in between the grip and bar. I thought that might be the issue, but alas it wasn't. The actual cable had several strands broken and were twisted inside the sheathing and making it hard to modulate the throttle. Thanks to you, I can scratch a couple parts off my list. Thanks!
On to another issue. I'd like to try to straighten out the right handlebar for now, but I can't get it off. Is that black knob the only way to loosen the bar from the holder? What does that collar below the knob do?
On to another issue. I'd like to try to straighten out the right handlebar for now, but I can't get it off. Is that black knob the only way to loosen the bar from the holder? What does that collar below the knob do?
hrc200x
Active Member
Black knob is only way bar comes off. They are prone to rusting in place. You can sometimes heat the bar just before it goes into the aluminum clamp with propane torch and with a large pliers turn on the black knob. Sometimes the knob breaks (there's plastic under the rubber), sometimes the bolt breaks, and if.your luck the bolt comes loose. The nut thing holds the black bar nut and is threaded into the handle bar holder but can't be removed until the bar comes off. Bars can be bent back into place leaving them in the holder and have it attached to the bike, long pry bars used to move bars forward or a pipe on the end to bend them apart. If you try this the aluminum handle bar holder can crack when doing this so be careful. Heat could be applied to the bar to help the bending process but might discolor or burn off the chrome. Letting the bars sit with wd40 or kroil in them may help too.
Dennis McDonaugh
Member
I was afraid of that. I've applied some penetrating oil and have been tapping it with a hamer, I'll attack it with some heat.
Best bet with penetrating oil/solvent is pouring it in from the handlebar, allowing it to pool at the threaded ends.
As for the throttle assembly, the parts looks very dirty but very well broken-in. I'd expect that assembly to have silky-smooth action once everything is cleaned & lubed. OTOH, the condition of that cable is best described using a six letter word, beginning with the sixth letter of the
English alphabet...which rhymes with "duct".
A new cable will make a huge difference, in the right direction. You may also benefit from the installation of a slightly stiffer & longer return spring. Take your original to a hardware store for comparison and look through the specialty hardware bins.
As for the throttle assembly, the parts looks very dirty but very well broken-in. I'd expect that assembly to have silky-smooth action once everything is cleaned & lubed. OTOH, the condition of that cable is best described using a six letter word, beginning with the sixth letter of the
English alphabet...which rhymes with "duct".
A new cable will make a huge difference, in the right direction. You may also benefit from the installation of a slightly stiffer & longer return spring. Take your original to a hardware store for comparison and look through the specialty hardware bins.
Dennis McDonaugh
Member
Thanks. I got both bars out. I applied generous amounts of heat and still managed to mangle the knob with the bent handlebar. The other one came out pretty easily. I've gotten the bent one straightened out enough so I can ride it.
I had this anvil with a hardy hole that was just the right size for the handlebar.
I straightened it with this round concrete form stake, which fit exactly inside the bar end.
I'll order a new cable and a few other odds and ends so I can ride it and evaluate the engine.
Dennis McDonaugh
Member
Even with everything cleaned up and greased real nice don't expect the throttle to snap closed. That's how us kids rolled back then, toys that shot out real projectiles,roaming the neighborhood til dinner,giant lawn darts with pointy tips and throttles that didn't return
I figured that out! It looks like some of the later bikes have normal switch gear on them. Is that a mod you can do to these bikes.
Now that's the way to wrangle a bent handlebar back into shape.
"Switchgear" refers to a handlebar lighting control unit: lights on/off, dimmer, turn signals, horn button (or some combo of these). I think you mean external, clamp-on, throttle assembly. And, yes, you can replace the stock internal twist grip throttle assembly with one. These are garden-variety 7/8" bars. Don't expect the return action to be a lot better. If you source an inexpensive aftermarket throttle assembly, you'll likely be disappointed. The primary issue is a weak return spring.
"Switchgear" refers to a handlebar lighting control unit: lights on/off, dimmer, turn signals, horn button (or some combo of these). I think you mean external, clamp-on, throttle assembly. And, yes, you can replace the stock internal twist grip throttle assembly with one. These are garden-variety 7/8" bars. Don't expect the return action to be a lot better. If you source an inexpensive aftermarket throttle assembly, you'll likely be disappointed. The primary issue is a weak return spring.