...enginedoctor, a DA sander is a tool I don't have. I do have a electric random orbit sander, which is a carpenters version of a DA. Mine is variable speed and 5". Seems kinda risky on something samll like a CT frame, but I like the idea, especially as a buffer. The clay bar I've heard of but not much more. I can practice with it on my truck. I'm not sure what would have a clearcoat and what doesn't, but all of my bikes are original paint. I don't think they are clearcoated... A'm I right about that? I think maybe I'll experiment on a old frame with the power tools before I go after anything that's near and dear. I'll probably hand clean and polish until I get a little experience with the buffer….
...Thanks for all the replies so far, I'm lovin this thread.
Fully agreed on the latter statement, but more clarification on the sander, paint and buffer
My d/a is made by <probably> dynabrade but i bought from mac tools for probably $220 back in the day. It's dressed up to look like it's made by mac. The random orbit of mine is 3/16" (5mm or so) this is the finer variety. i think they even make them to 1/8", but more common is 3/8", which is what all the bodymen used to use. I bought my first D/a at napa before i ever ventured to a body shop, and when i pulled it out of my toolbox i got laughed at. it wasn't variable speed or anything. i think i gave it away. def not for finesse work.
BACK to the current setup: i have 3 pads. all 6". one is flat and meant for sticky backed abrasives (usu up to 320 or MAYBE 600). Then i have '3m hookit' and 'hookit2' which are velcro backed pads. These are all for paint finish work. 800, 1200, 3000 etc. stuff isn't cheap when you get that fine. the 3000 pad barely marks the paint at all. it could be used for small spot and scratch cleanup.
I'm fully familiar with what you 'wood butchers' call sanders. does yours have a vacuum bag for sawdust? comparing that to the one i have is like night and day. Mine is air only, and requires a sizable (cfm wise) air compressor to run. That being said, if i had to shape wood, i'd take the one you have any day over mine. purpose built i guess. the best feature of mine is the variable 'air choke' that limits the D/a to a very slow speed. when you crank it up it'll do some serious damage. but i'd take it to the finish of a mercedes, rolls royce or other in a heartbeat to get a good finish on the clear. it's very controllable.
As for the paint. anything from the factory i'd guess is an acrylic lacquer based candy. so sealer first, then silver/gold (probably silver i would assume) then the 'transparent' top coat of the desired color. Cars even only started doing base/clear later like the 80's and 90s i'm pretty certain. Any painter from a car world would probably do a candy, then a clear topcoat, for several reasons. I had my CT90 painted PPG DG lacquer, which requires no topcoat, but when my friend mike did my ST90 frame, he did base/clear. The st90 involved more prep work so he donated nicer paint to my cause. when we applied the sticker, we sanded the top layer of clear, then applied the sticker then cleared over. I would imagine some people out there went a base/clear route on their restorations. it's just that common. For the most part though, it's probably all going to be lacquer.
Now for the buffer. i think his was a makita. it was blue. he had soft terry style buffing pads, one for each compound. This might be for clearcoat finishes only, i've never buffed anything lacquer. his was variable RPM, and had some 'sack' to it. ran on 110 ac which makes it very convenient. really adds shine to the paint. Like i said though, i've had some luck using the compounds and a hand sand for spot finishes only. i imagine if you became adept with the buffer you could make the paint come out really nice. unfortunately, there's stickers and badges all over these little ct's, and i think the buffer would ruin them.
anyways, like you said, loving this thread. great idea to be honest. when you see so many ultra clean bikes on this site it makes you wonder how people got them there. thanks for the info.
