Thanks so much for the info! I'll be investigating methods to repair this, both at home and professionally. I've pretty much ruled out buying a new one since they are so hard to come by and expensive, and mine seems to be in great condition except the one break in the wire on the one coil. I will update with what I decide to do! In the meantime, any methods or advice for repairing this you have come across would be appreciated!
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CT70H Mitsubishi Stator rebuild?
- Thread starter BlueGrassTornado
- Start date
Thanks so much for the info! I'll be investigating methods to repair this, both at home and professionally. I've pretty much ruled out buying a new one since they are so hard to come by and expensive, and mine seems to be in great condition except the one break in the wire on the one coil. I will update with what I decide to do! In the meantime, any methods or advice for repairing this you have come across would be appreciated!
Only way to find out is the hard way, unfortunately. The damaged section(s) will have to be identified, the actual damage evaluated. It may be possible to repair the insulation (varnish) if the damage isn't deep. If it's close enough to the end of the windings, it might be possible to simply excise the damaged section.
As someone with hands-on experience but little knowledge of electricity/electronics, would there be a huge issue with connecting the broken section of wire together? The damage doesn't seem deep and its only the one wire, I'm just worried if I insert a small section of wire it may mess something up.
The two critical issues are inductance and impedance. The latter is easy enough to preserve, just keep the total length of a winding roughly the same. Take a look at the total number of turns and overall length of the wire...a turn, or three, is likely to be less than 1% of the total wire. OTOH, inductance is what's responsible for the amount of electrical charge being generated; here is where neatness counts. The windings should be as uniform & tight as possible. If the break involves a significant length of wire, i.e. you have to unwind a dozen (or more) turns to access the break, the outcome is less certain. I'd give it a try, anyway. The solder joint should be as clean, solid and minimal as you can make it. A short length of thinwalled brass tubing would make for a super-clean splice...if you can source it. If not, solder should be alright. I'd lay down a base of epoxy, on the unmolested windings, followed by an application of epoxy to the splice (to hold everything securely together). Plan on multiple, thin, coatings, over at least two days, the first to allow the base layer to fully cure. After that, there's the acid test...if it works, you're good-to-go. If not, either try clipping the offending section. If that also fails, time for a complete rewind or a replacement coil.