Front wheel wobble

OK what are the reasons a front wheel would wobble? It didnt seem to wobble before i put the new Reggae tires on. I plan to take the front wheel apart again and check everything for roundness and run out.I dont think anything got dropped while changing tires.

If things are bent, i suspect the axle first. What would be the next to go? The wheel halves, or the center hub?

I thought of getting a dic brake kit, but do you really need a disc brake kit if you are not planning on cruising at over 65mph? I dont think my 124 would do that for long with me on it.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
A bent axle probably wouldn't cause wheel wobble, the wheel would be offset and spin true. The most common & simple causes to look for are a pinched inner tube (between the wheel halves) or improperly seated tire. Either could result in a wheel wobble that wasn't there before the tire change. Obviously, a bent wheel or hub could be the culprit.

Brake shoes are one item where it pays to buy the best. They don't cost all that much, so why take chances...go with OEM Honda or quality aftermarket such as Kitaco or Ferodo. The Z50, CT70, CT90/110 all use the same brake shoes and the bigger bikes were good for 55-ish top speeds. I don't trust the drum brakes beyond 55mph, period. That doesn't mean that they won't cut it for certain, but the feel doesn't inspire a lot of confidence and they weren't designed for that speed. Before converting to a front disc brake, I always used compression braking to slow the bike down to 50 before applying the brakes.

This is only my take on things, others may beg to differ. That said, there's no substitute for a properly setup disc brake. I run OEM Honda/Nissin 220mm discs with the twin piston calipers and the difference is night & day. You don't have to cruise at 65mph to realize the improvement in stopping power. At that speed, I wouldn't expect the drums to work very well at all. Below 60, though, is some gray area, especially for a skillful rider. A couple of recent events really opened my eyes. I rode a K0 fitted with a Nice 110 and stock brakes/suspension. After three years of riding a similarly powered bike with upgraded suspension & front disc, this was an exercise in near-terror...at least initially. After a few miles, I did begin to adjust my riding style but somehow just never felt completely comfortable. Getting back on my own bike afterward, I nearly did a stoppie the first couple of times the brakes were applied. The other, more serious incident, came when I was riding along, with my wife aboard and some $#@*&^!!! ran a red light directly in front of me while traveling along somewhere between 50-55mph. I really appreciated having "overkill" braking power at that moment. Even with the rear wheel getting light enough to induce partial lockup, there was just barely enough room to stop in time. I doubt that the stock drums could have equalled the stopping distance. An extreme example, to be sure. But on the road, anything can happen. With 124cc moving you along, you're into "real bike" territory (I consider 55mph+ "real bike" speeds) and real bikes should have real brakes. In this state, anyway, 125cc is enough displacement to legally ride on freeways. You aren't required to have a death wish to ride a CT on a freeway...but it helps. Likewise for 65mph sprints with questionable braking power for that speed. You can probably get away with it for a long time. IMO, a bike should be balanced with brakes & suspension to match engine power, to be reasonably safe. Then again, that's just my opinion...I could be wrong.
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Try letting the air out and refilling it a couple times.sounds like the tube is kinked up a little.;) as far as the high tech front end,it wouldnt hurt.
 

clubford00

Member
Yank the wheel and axle put the axle in a vise and mount the wheel on it and give it a spin...off the bike will be the easiest way to track it down....Dean
 

TrailRyd3r

Member
Drum brakes work fine, but disc are more for show. I have a dirt bike with a 110cc on it and it has disc in the front of it, and I have hit the brakes on that thing just to test and adjust, and I have had to really get into my brakes on my 110cc CT70 on the streets before, and my drum does real well. But my next trail bike will have discs in the front, maybe they will work better, who knows...
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Some disc brakes are more for show. I run 220mm discs and 2-piston calipers from a larger, current production model, bike. That's nearly the same diameter as a 10-inch wheel and also the largest disc setup that will fit with 10-inch wheels. That's significantly larger than most OE setups for CT70 clones. It's a hardcore setup and a bit of overkill, but the stopping power is awesome, like fade-free power brakes.

I agree with you that the OEM drum brakes, properly adjusted and in good condition work pretty well. I rode with them for years but always felt that their effectiveness started to go away above 50mph and that there wasn't much of a safety margin at such speeds. Below 50mph, drums can yank the bike down quite well. There's some gray area here, but at 60mph+ it takes a lot more braking power to scrub-off speed than it does at 50mph. There are two parameters where discs excel: ultimate high-speed stopping power and heat dissipation. A good disc brake becomes a requirement only at the extremes. Under most conditions, drums should be adequate and it's mostly a matter of rider preference. After riding with a front disc brake though, it's tough going back to drums.
 
I checked my wheel , and it seems as if i have a big problem. After taking the tire off and testing just the rim and hub, it seems as if the wheel halves themselves ar not only bent, but also " flat spotted", They are only .3 inches off but thats enough to make a difference at higher speeds while in a turn. I dont know how they could have gotten bent. I dove into my parts bin and started to take apart another rim. Whats the best way to remove rust from the wheel halves?
 
A grinder with a wire wheel will effictively remove the rust.
Try rotating your rim 1/2`s untill they match up on both sides.
Also when assembling tighten the bolts in this order-
1st bolt, 3rd bolt, 2nd bolt , 4th bolt
see if these tips help.
 
Thanks for the tips. I did tighten the rim as you described. But i dont think that could have caused this problem, as the rim is bent , in two different axis. If you were to view the rim from the front, the rim is bent to the right,( y axis), and its has been squashed,( bent in the x axis). The rim it self is no longer round or staright. I can only assume this was the work of a pothole. I dont do a lot of off road riding, so it must have happened while at speed.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
kenfyoozed said:
I checked my wheel , and it seems as if i have a big problem. After taking the tire off and testing just the rim and hub, it seems as if the wheel halves themselves ar not only bent, but also " flat spotted", They are only .3 inches off but thats enough to make a difference at higher speeds while in a turn. I dont know how they could have gotten bent. I dove into my parts bin and started to take apart another rim. Whats the best way to remove rust from the wheel halves?

.300" out-of-round is huge, enough to give the handlebars some jackhammer action at speed. A pothole could have caused this, especially with low air pressure in the tire. I've also seen rims thrashed from having a rusted-in-place tire forcibly pried off. A stuck tire should be heated loose before applying the prybar or the bead carefully cut free.

The best way to remove rust is media blasting. Steel grit is my first choice, glass bead works well also but takes a lot longer. The inside surfaces almost always have heavy rust & pitting and blasting is the most thorough method of getting all of the rust out without removing solid metal. Coating the inside surfaces with POR-15 afterward isn't a bad idea, either. Unless you never expose the bike to moisture, the rims will get water inside and the design is an effective one-way valve. That's why they rust so well in the first place.
 
I agree the rims are really easy to bend while trying to pry loose the rusted on/stuck tire.
They can be beaten back in to shape with a hammer or hammer and metal wedge of some sort fairly easily.
 
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