K0 exhaust doesn't fit?

[mtspeeddemon]

I bought a used K0 exhaust recently, went to mount it up tonight and it doesn't fit. Ok, I have never seen one of thses as my HK0 came with an aftermarket exhaust that looks like K1 type. So anyway, the rear hole that goes over the stud on the shock is about a 1/4" off. I thought about forcing it but didn't want to snap my exhaust apart.

Please help with any ideas. I just learned that silvertag exhaust is slightly different, could this be from a silvertag? Are they interchangeable? As far as I can tell it is up all the way inside the exhaust port of the head and I have the little bracket that connects to a spacer near where the footpeg of the kick start lever is when in the up position. Sorry, I don't know how to explain that better, the little zig zag doohicket thingey and spacer are both there.













Oh and in the last pic above, I want to complete the under seat area, what else do I need, battery strap, tool pouch and spring for under the seat but I don't know what all is supposed to be here, I've seen a white battery tray liner, a strap, a rubber cover, is there anything else?

How do I mount this exhaust?! Please help.

 

[cjpayne]

In your last pic, the mount doesn't look bent, but in one of the others it does. 2-D pics can be deceiving. Verify the shock mount isn't bent. I remember having to drill out the mounting hole in a '93 exhaust to get it to fit my K1, as the pipe was a little bent up. I also noticed that you have the insulator installed under the bracket that holds the exhaust. I would get that out of there before it causes the pipe to rust in two, unless you have header wrap in there or something.

 

[cjpayne]

These are from a K0.

 

[mtspeeddemon]

Thanks for the pics. Yes, I have the insulator under the forward shield bracket. Should I just remove it and have nothing or is there something else I should replace that insulator with?

I'll check the stud again but I'm pretty sure it's straight. I didn't have any issues replacing the shocks recently and I looked briefly again tonight and didn't notice any deformation. The exhaust had been in an accident, the rear of the shield was pressed against the pipe and is somewhat scratched up. I removed it and straightened it a bit so it looks better but I wonder if that bent the pipe somewhere making it not quite right.

 

[cjpayne]

I think it was OLDCT that recommends header wrap. I leave mine empty, but secured with a custom length clamp. Just keeps it from rattling and it's not really noticeable.

 

[red69]

When you mounted the exhaust, did you leave the header pipe loose at the exhaust port? I had the same problem with a new exhaust on my blue K0. I was able to pull it back a bit to get it to align with the shock mount.

Bob

 

[mtspeeddemon]

Yes, the front was loose in the exhaust port.

 

[hornetgod]

Loosen the drive chain and two engine mount bolts. That should give the engine/muffler some wiggle room. The exhaust was tight on my HK0 too. Get everything started before tightening everything down. Opening the hole up a little is another option.

 

[andrewdell19]

Can you mount it from the rear to the front? Line up the mounts from the back and then work your way to the front? Mount the back, then the middle then the front under the engine. It could be that middle mount playing some tricks on you.

That is a damn pretty bike!!!

 

[andrewdell19]

Loosen the drive chain, skid plate, and two engine mount bolts. That should give the engine/muffler some wiggle room. The exhaust was tight on my HK0 too.

It was tight taking it off, but after loosening all mounts and bolts it just kind of fell off... Just kind of slid right out. Like a glove- or taking a glove off

So that middle mount- try fitting the back first then the engine part but leaving it loose enough to fit the middle mount on... I have noticed from fixing other bikes you just need to try a few different angles.

 

[mtspeeddemon]

I've never removed one of these engines. Where are the two engine mount bolts?

 

[CTKing]

I've had this problem also. Mount it from the front but don't snug it down to much. Then I just grabbed onto the exhaust and pulled it back. I had to put some muscle into it but the header will flex a bit. Was about the distance away. I new it would fit because I had taken it off the same bike a couple of days earlier.

 

[Enginedoctor]

I've never removed one of these engines. Where are the two engine mount bolts?

really?

one at the top and one of the back of the engine cases. they're the aluminum base things that hold the transmission and crankshaft all that. should be 14mm heads on those bolts. i forget which side they bolt in from, but you will most likely need to back up one side with a wrench, then use a ratchet on the opposing side. careful not to wreck your nice original paint.


personally, id loosen the 10mm's at the head and give it a yank to see if you can get the stud to line up. it's exhaust. from a chevy 350 cast iron manifold to a jeep 4.0l y pipe on a wranger or grand cherokee to cats on a saabaru 2.5, i've seen them ALL require the occasional attitude adjustment to fit. i don't think the late 60's/early 70's was any different...

 

[OLD CT]

Remove the big hex nut spacer off the shock. Leave the header loose,then install the hex nut into the pipe FIRST then start threading it back on the shock. Does this make sense to you?

 

[mtspeeddemon]

Yes really don't know where the engine mount bolts are. I bought this thing running and have never looked at how to remove the engine or gas tank or coil... And I didn't spend a lot of time on this as I didn't want to force it and break it. So I thought I'd throw out a lifeline and ask for some tips, mainly to see if I was overlooking something obvious.

Thanks for all if the tips. I'll have another look real soon!

 

[CTKing]

really?

one at the top and one of the back of the engine cases. they're the aluminum base things that hold the transmission and crankshaft all that. should be 14mm heads on those bolts. i forget which side they bolt in from, but you will most likely need to back up one side with a wrench, then use a ratchet on the opposing side. careful not to wreck your nice original paint.


personally, id loosen the 10mm's at the head and give it a yank to see if you can get the stud to line up. it's exhaust. from a chevy 350 cast iron manifold to a jeep 4.0l y pipe on a wranger or grand cherokee to cats on a saabaru 2.5, i've seen them ALL require the occasional attitude adjustment to fit. i don't think the late 60's/early 70's was any different...

That's exactly what I was saying. They all flex enough to reach. You just have to use a little muscle.

 

[DFull]

Place self behind bike, grasp exhaust with both hands, PULL!

 

[bc17a]

It appears to be about 6mm short...hint, hint. The cylinder looks aluminum...hint, hint. Could it be a tall 69mm aftermarket cylinder and not 63mm?

Edit; Looking at the other pics, the cylinder looks iron but it could still be tall.

 

[mtspeeddemon]

Hmm, I've seen 72cc stamped in the area. She's stock as far as I know.

 

[kirrbby]

With the lower guard removed to can stick a broomstick or 2x2 into the lower bend and carefully us it as leverage to tweak a push toward the rear mount. Works good for me.