Kick start issue

[kirrbby]

By the size of it...maybe it came out of the seal that's in the stator plate..? Or possibly from the one on the countershaft.
But the good news is that EVERY seal can be changed without taking the engine back apart. You could just wait and see if any of your seals leak.

 

[Ffranzwa]

That is a "retaining" spring that goes on the inside lip of an oil seal.

Thanks Lukelaw. After I came in the house and relaxed, it dawned on me that the mystery spring was from an oil seal. Thank you for the reply!

 

[Ffranzwa]

By the size of it...maybe it came out of the seal that's in the stator plate..? Or possibly from the one on the countershaft.
But the good news is that EVERY seal can be changed without taking the engine back apart. You could just wait and see if any of your seals leak.

Thank you for all of your help Kirby!

 

[Ffranzwa]

here is a nice image of an oil seal.

 

[Ffranzwa]

Okay guys.. I know when I'm licked. I took tue cases apart to try to find out why my kick starter wasn't engaging and didn't find anything out of place. I order a new gasket set and proceeded to assemble the cases. Now I don't have proper gear selection. The gear shift arm will only turn the drum into 1 gear, then it kind of flops around. I'd attach a video but this format doesn't allow me to send MP4. I'm done xxxxing with this engine so I need your help. Does anyone out there know of someone thst I can pay to get this engine assembled correctly to a long block status? If I can't locate someone. I'm probably going to order a replacement engine so that I can finish this (nightmare) project.

 

[Ffranzwa]

BTW: I'm in the Kansas City area. Thanks.

 

[OLD CT]

I think emotions are getting to you. Take a deep breath open a beer and relax! The engine will NOT bench shift very easy at all! You need to have a countershaft sprocket on, find neutral, and turn the countershaft sprocket by hand while trying to up/down shift!

 

[Ffranzwa]

Thanks for talking me off the ledge OldCT. I'm going to leave it on the work the work bench this weekend and try again next week. Thanks again!

 

[Ffranzwa]

Hi everyone. A week ago, I trial fit my engine on the frame of my '73 K2 CT70. I installed the kick starter and noticed that the flywheel wasn't spinning when the I pushed down on the starter. So I split the cases once more to verify that the internal kick start spring was in its proper slot and it appeared to be. Baffled, I started to put verything back together, but this time I checked to insure that the when the kick staft was turned, it did move the primary gear, the clutch basket and finally the piston. So I proceeded to install the ball retainer on the clutch, the cylinder, head and finally the outer cases. I check the kick shaft and it's doing the EXACT same thing that it did the first time- when the kick shaft is engaged, it does not turn the flywheel or the valves. Only when the flywheel is set @ TDC does it turn slightly (about 1/16th of a turn. The only thing that turns is the primary sprocket. Before I reinstall the engine, is this normal?

 

[lukelaw1]

have you adjusted the auto clutch?

one video of many

honda ct70 clutch adjustment - Google Search

 

[kirrbby]

X2
Sounds like yours is way out of adjustment. You'll probably need to...loosen the nut back quite a bit...then, you'll need to turn the stud clockwise until it turns VERY easy. It may need a couple turns before it frees up. Then, follow the adjustment procedure.

This might help too.

 

[Ffranzwa]

Hhhmmm... I never thought of the clutch. I put new plates in the clutch during the rebuild. I hope that solves my problem. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

 

[Ffranzwa]

I'm still struggling with the kickstarter not engaging the crankshaft on a 73 K2 CT70. This is the 3rd time that I've had it apart and it still will not engage. I checked my work with the left engine case in place and the piston attached. When I push down on the kick shart, it partially moves the crank, but if I hold on to the piston, I can hold it in place. This kick shaft is a used replacement (the OEM shaft was missing teeth). Do you think the replacement shaft is bad? It looks good (all if the teeth are there) and it's assembled exactly like the pics in my Clymers manual. I'm @ my wits end with this project!

 

[Robert thran]

Your loading all your parts on the wrong side of the case. Install everything the same way but in the other case half..then send pics .

 

[kirrbby]

Your loading all your parts on the wrong side of the case. Install everything the same way but in the other case half..then send pics .

I think he didn't want to have to remove the clutch.

I'm still struggling with the kickstarter not engaging the crankshaft on a 73 K2 CT70. This is the 3rd time that I've had it apart and it still will not engage. I checked my work with the left engine case in place and the piston attached. When I push down on the kick shart, it partially moves the crank, but if I hold on to the piston, I can hold it in place. This kick shaft is a used replacement (the OEM shaft was missing teeth). Do you think the replacement shaft is bad? It looks good (all if the teeth are there) and it's assembled exactly like the pics in my Clymers manual. I'm @ my wits end with this project!

Did you try adjusting the clutch before you took it back apart??
Did you understand the instruction from the video, and/or manual??
THAT might have been all that you needed.

 

[Ffranzwa]

Okay Guys, here's my issue. In the pic with two red arrows, the kick start turns the gear cluster just fine. When the primary gear is installed on the cluster and the small gear is installed on the crank, it will move the crank/piston, but only when there is little to no load on the crank. I can hold the piston in place while the kick shaft is engaged. The small crank gear slips on the brass collar on the crank. There is no keyway on the crank, nor on the gear so it appears to me that energy from the kick shaft can't transmit to the crank. Someone mentioned on this blog that the clutch has to be installed for everything to work properly, but it seems to me that this engine won't kick start without this gear being anchored to the crank. Please look @ the pics to make sure everything is assembled correctly, since I had to replace the kick shaft and the primary 1st gear because of missing teeth. And while I have your attention, is there supposed to be a wear washer between the left case and the end of the kick shaft (other photo with 1 arrow)? There is evidence of abrasion on the case where the shaft rests in its hole. I have a washer present on the kick shaft where the center case mates but not on the left case. Again, THANK YOU ALL for helping me save this little CT!

 

[Ffranzwa]

And yes, I did try to adjust the clutch by loosening the lock nut, turning the screwdriver counter clock, then going 1/8-1/4 clockwise. This adjustment didn't seem to help any.

 

[CLEC66]

Do you have the gear that slides on the brass bearing? That gear will link the clutch pack to the primary gear. Without it your piston ain’t gonna move. They’re a little tricky to get seated too, have to turn primary gear till clutch pack drops a little. Don’t have a pic of that gear handy right now.

 

[Robert thran]

When you tighten the clutch nut on the crankshaft it lock down those parts So no key way is needed.

 

[kirrbby]

And yes, I did try to adjust the clutch by loosening the lock nut, turning the screwdriver counter clock, then going 1/8-1/4 clockwise. This adjustment didn't seem to help any.

This is NOT the correct procedure. The way you describe this, is wrong.

We are usually quick to reply when you ask for help. Keep us informed...in the loop. Your issue is probably a simple thing. Make SURE you are understanding the advice you are getting before you decide you need to tear you engine apart.