Mighty green base color

ktheake

Member
So I have successfully found a Candy ruby red and base , I now am about to do a couple blow- ins on a mighty green and then respray a frame .
The question is - what base did Honda use on the mighty green - from my view it looks to be a white but I have been fooled before and it was silver. I don't think silver was needed on the green .
The urethane I'm using doesn't need a base to achieve the color I'm thinking but I did find that a very little top coat or red was required over the base to correctly bring the effect of candy . So I was thinking I best ask and I may get the color better if I understand the base - white??? - just in case I have trouble with tooo green - I may have to hit it up with some base to get real close Understanding that laquer doesn't exist - just need to know if this pops too much - the white base as I see it would be best to know ahead of time .
What have you guys found ?
Eventually I hope to assist other members with an easy opportunity for members to spray out their own bikes with the right codes for the red , green , on and on - after the green is topaz orange - mine looks like a washed out gold from fade and hoping that that color pops like the ruby red .
All of the refinishing I have completed on these so far - less is more correct and it's easy to overestore these just by cleaning up weld spatter and applying an even coat 360 * . It's noticable .
 
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kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Sorry for the no-reply on your first post. I'm sure you're right about the white tho. Since MG isn't a candy paint, the base color is much LESS important, but I'm sure it still matters some. If you used a dark base, it might change your end result. But with solid color paint, once you get a few coats applied, I would think you shouldn't be able to see thru it much...if any at all.

I have a MG frame at home that the PO started sanding on...stripping paint. I'll try to remember to look at it tonight to see, if I can see, a base color. I'll actually be surprised if honda did apply a base/primer at all. I thought they always painted direct to metal, back in the day.
 

ktheake

Member
Appreciate the interest - let me know what you see . I have not got years of experience with these so other examples will help reinforce correct direction . The code on the Mighty green is only available in a single stage urethane not base clear . I have not sprayed it out yet and uncertain if it's transparent or covers well . If it's anything usual as the other frames I have sprayed - possibly transparent and to get to the correct color may require a base to support a couple light coats over top.
 

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Appreciate the interest - let me know what you see . I have not got years of experience with these so other examples will help reinforce correct direction . The code on the Mighty green is only available in a single stage urethane not base clear . I have not sprayed it out yet and uncertain if it's transparent or covers well . If it's anything usual as the other frames I have sprayed - possibly transparent and to get to the correct color may require a base to support a couple light coats over top.

The white that you see in this pic is what's left of the decal. I don't see a base coat of paint...just Mighty Green and steel. I think a couple coats of primer could only be good tho.

IMG_20210320_173807673.jpg


...hmm. The decal DOES look white standing in front of it...but the camera... flash... It must be reflective.
 

ktheake

Member
Thanks for taking some time to discuss - I believe now that on the Mighty green - the frame body is just straight paint and I found also the steering stem and small gussetts- welds- showing signs of wear - cables - with white beneath . Sooo I believe majority of frame was straight paint - mighty green and probably yellow and other solids using the white as a primer or better base to take up the roughness and improve the final top coat finish -
I only found the white base at the steering stem both top and bottom as well as gussetts at the top -
I compounded the bike that was just a blow in and thats what was found .
The code for green that is available - was on the money . It's got to be pricey though - 2 catalysts for Deltron and a blending reducer - since it was a blow in- to existing original and you still need a reducer - even though the formula was cut to a 1/4 pint and I sprayed another complete frame and had leftover catalyzed junk by now - it's not the answer for someone at home . Rattle cans - close would be a far cheaper alternative that's a given . But the color is available and spot on fantastic match .
So that's the long story of a simple green st90 color match - some people must be shaking their head but painting these and understanding doing it well makes a huge difference in the finished product .
So next is topaz orange - and its washed out color wise - I was staring at the swing arm and motor mount area and wondering if I should blow it in - because even if I go to the trouble to paint it complete- does an orange really !!! - we are going to find out .
E
 

ktheake

Member
And to all Orange Topaz owners - sorry to kick the color but right next to this washed out 3 shades . gold / brown topaz sits a nice candy red - base clear and it is spectacular in my eyes - sooo the Orange will be interesting to see if it can catch my eye the same way -
 
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